From Sunny Pass to Bonaparte Mountain: Running in the High Hills

      Atop the snowy pass, we braced ourselves against the wind and pushed along the trail. We were on our way to a lake high in the Pasayten Wilderness, beyond Sunny Pass. My running buddy, Shona Hilton and I were out on a late September 14 miler and we had hit the first snowstorm of the season in this area. We had seen the forecast, so we were somewhat prepared, but not enough to keep looking for this mountain lake. We had already come up 5 miles and still had the down run. We had passed a cacophony of ravens and turkey vultures as they feasted on a carcass left behind, by what we were hoping was a hunter rather than a cougar kill. I had been slow to recognize what the the eerie cries of the scavenger birds meant as they circled in the sky, having been distracted from their meal by Shona and I passing through the forest.  The wind was blowing wet snow in our faces and the trail at our feet was getting increasingly more muddy and puddled as we ran.

     We had left early that morning and driven for 2 hours to reach the Iron Gate Trailhead in the Loomis Forest. The trail goes through an old burn area. Shona, Ras and I had ran through here in the summer during the wildflower season. It was nice to be here now and feel the contrast of the autumn season. The bushes were turning red, the larch needles were turning golden yellow and beginning to fall to the ground. The air temperature was chilly. We began in a wet drizzle, but as we climbed higher, we entered the snowy zone. We could see the white dusting on distant Windy Peak. This was the first run for Shona and I in these conditions this new season. It was very invigorating, but we knew we had to turn back before finding the lake with this threatening weather whirling around.

    It was fun running back down towards the trail head. We crossed little streams and danced among the rocks strewn all over the trail. The path was wide though and it was easy to find good foot placements. When we got back to the trail head, we saw an older couple from New Mexico who had been traveling since May, hiking trails all over the Pacific Northwest. They asked us if we'd take the garbage from the parking area with us, as they had just cleaned up a messy campsite someone had left behind. They figured we could help with this environmental effort, by hauling the bag off. Sure. Whatever. Shona is kinder than me and gladly obliged. 

     When we got back into Oroville, I got espresso for Shona and I at our local small-town stand. The coffee is mediocre at best and the service is rarely with a smile. It is nice to share a hot drink after a long, cold run though.

     Shona and I decided to get in one more long run before Baker Lake 50k. We had wanted to run around the 4th of July Ridge Trail that encircles Bonaparte Mountain. While up high on the trail, you reach a 1/2 mile spur trail to the Bonaparte Lookout and summit, so this makes the total run 15.5 miles with 3,800 feet of climbing. We knew it would be a great run for spending at least 5 hours on our feet and having some technical single track practice. 

     We started on crunchy, frosty trail at 7:30 in the morning. The sun was mixed with clouds and the air was cold and crisp. Shona led the way along the nicely cleared trail.  It was a cold start, but we began to warm up quickly. I stopped to shed layers and reminded myself that this is the time of year to start out on the trail cold. I always warm up quickly and then have to break my rhythm by stopping shortly in to strip off layers I no longer need. These are the lessons to remember when the seasons are transitioning.

     It was nice to be out running on this trail. I had hiked it with my friend Lisa just 2 weeks prior, after having several bouts of pancreatitis through the later part of the summer. I didn't know when I'd be able to get out on runs again, or if I'd be able to run Baker Lake. I had originally signed up for the 100k distance at Baker Lake, but dropped to the 50k after these painful abdominal episodes forced me to cut back on training. I was grateful to be feeling normal now, running along behind Shona as if these pains had never come around.

     We reached the summit and enjoyed the views from this 7,257 foot perch. We could see the Canadian mountains, the Okanogan Highlands and its dry pasture lands, small surrounding hills and the distant Kettle Crest Range. After a snack and a few photos, it was time to descend back down to the main trail. We had about 5 1/2 miles to go to get around the rest of Bonaparte. This side of the mountain was damper with several creek crossings. The forest flora was different. This change in terrain kept us moving forward at a good pace. The wild raspberries were gone and the fall colors drew my eye off of the trail. Sometimes its amazing to see the vivid colors of nature, especially in this season where life is preparing for the cold of winter to come on. 

     I kept up a good amount of energy on this run by snacking on tempeh strips I had prepared at home ahead of time. I also had a soy cheese quasadilla on a whole wheat tortilla, Justin's almond butter pouch, Gu Chomps, Hammer Cafe Latte Perpetuem and a newer product called Fuel 100 Electro-Bites in Salty Vanilla. They tasted good as I shared them with Shona on one of the sweet mossy bridges. Electro-Bites' slogan is "Fuel the Miles" and they are made with coconut oil. They are also gluten and soy free.  I didn't know much about them when I pulled the extremely light weight package from my pack and offered some to Shona. She loved them immediately and she sometimes is particular about what she can stomach on a long run. She liked their salty and non- offensive aftertaste. We both liked how easy them were to eat because they simply dissolve in your mouth. Shona messaged the company with praises of the energizing little snack and they sent her their newest flavor to try before anyone else, Pumpkin Spice, a packet for each of us. I am looking forward to pulling them out at just the right moment on my next long run.

      Shona and I both stayed strong to the end of our loop run. We finished in just under 6 hours. We both felt confident that we could run Baker Lake the following weekend. We knew it would have its challenges, its high points and low points. That is what running an ultra marathon is all about. We always go into them with big question marks about what obstacles might appear for us to conquer. If we knew ahead of time, it just wouldn't have the same appeal. Sometimes the challenges are mental and sometimes they are physical. Defeating either during hours spent moving through nature along a trail, has healing benefits a runner will experience well beyond the finish line.