Sunday, November 3, 2013

H3 2013

H3 2013: The Second Annual Highland Halloween Hundred Trail UnRun

photo by Kathy VaughanBy Kathy Vaughan

     The home of Ras and I was filled with athletes on the early morning of Saturday, October 26th. Ras and I had spent the days leading up to this cold morning, preparing for their arrival. He had ridden his mountain bike about 16 miles along the 100 trail to mark it on Thursday night. Friday, he marked the single track on our property and drove his truck up the Forest Service road to place markers. The course was more thoroughly marked than last year. Next year, we hope to do even better with course marking. 

photo by Ras

     I had spent Thursday and Friday preparing food for the aid stations and our home. I knew after driving all day Friday to get to our house, everyone would be hungry. I had a pot of garbanzo bean and coconut milk soup ready for their arrival. I also baked a batch of vegan banana muffins. The runners appreciated this sustenance when they arrived and the leftovers were added to race day fare.   

     I made a pot of African Peanut Soup and a pot of Harvest Pumpkin for the aid stations. The Harvest Pumpkin was popular and this made me happy as I had just made up the recipe on the fly. I like making soups, sometimes following recipes, sometimes just creating something with ingredients I have on hand. The peanut soup had been popular last year and I decided to make it again because of this. It is from “The Colophon Cafe Soup Cookbook”. This cafe is located in Fairhaven, Washington. The pumpkin soup was made with canned pumpkin, coconut milk, green chilis, green pepper, red pepper, corn, onion, garlic, cumin, black pepper, Bragg Liquid Amino Acids as a soup base, smoked paprika, onion powder and chili powder.  I think it fit the mood of a crisp autumn day.

photo by Ras
L-R: Takao Suzuki, Kathleen Leonard, Andrew Dingwall, Anthony Skierkiewicz, Van Phan, Ben Brown, Lisa Eversgerd

     I also baked vegan chocolate chip cookies and made pinto beans for burritos Ras would be serving at the Whistler Canyon trailhead aide station at Highway 97. I made a pot of rice and put together supplies for him to make the burritos there. I included whole wheat tortillas and green taco sauce. Leaving the aide station, the runners would start a climb and it would be a good time for them to have something solid to eat. We also supplied Ziplock bags so they could take another burrito with them for later along the trail. These were well liked. The aide stations also had chips, soda, snacks they could take with them like raisins and packages of crackers, hard candy for quick energy, coffee, water and tea. Drop bags were allowed at both of the aide stations.   

photo by Ras

     At 7 am, the runners lined up on a flour line Ras had made in our driveway. From there, the race would start on single track trail through our property until reaching the Forest Service Road which doubles as the Pacific Northwest Trail. This road takes them up a 900 foot climb to Haley Divide. From there, they will drop down to a large trailhead 1.5 miles away, with an outhouse. From this trailhead, the 100 Trail begins. It starts with a 3 mile climb to the first aide station at race mile 8.  After the aid station, the trail begins a 13 mile stretch to the aid station at Highway 97 where Ras awaits with the hot soup and bean and rice burritos. This is also the turn around. Runners reverse direction. After a 13 mile climb, with some mixed rolling trail, they hit the 3525 aid station, being run by the Hilton family, a second time. They next have the final 8 mile stretch back to our house. This stretch begins with downhill on mainly double track for about 3 miles, a short climb to Haley Divide and then the final gradual descent on Forest Service road for about 4 miles. At the bottom of the Forest Service road, course markers lead everyone back onto our property, where they meander along single track for about ¼ mile to our house and the finish.

photo by Ras

     The route beings at an elevation of 3,500 feet. The 21 mile turn around point in the Okanogan River valley, just south of the small town of Oroville, is at an elevation of about 938 feet.  Along the course, the trail passes through forest mixed with tamarack, fir and pine. Black Bear roam these forests and I have seen a mother and her 2 cubs, that scrambled high into trees. I have also seen a yearling, running off in fright when he heard Ras and I coming.  The tamarack needles have all turned yellow and have not yet been blown to the ground. They look spectacular mixed in the forest. The trail also passes through areas with ponds and deciduous trees like aspen and alder. Moose like it in these areas. I once saw a mother moose and her two young ones. Another time, Ras and I startled a moose that ran off into the thick brush.  Other areas are rocky and open, with just a few pine trees and views of the river and orchards far below.  Before reaching the turn around point, the trail passes through a rocky canyon with steep walls marked in petroglyphs.  In the summer, rattlesnakes can be seen here. Big Horn Mountain Sheep roam the cliffs.

photo by Takao Suzuki

     As soon as the sun came up, the day became much warmer. The temperature was great for a fall run. The sun shone all day. The sky was clear, although the wind blew down in the valley.  Last year, Van Phan and Deby Kumasaka had run the course in snow. They had opted for a 100 mile finish because of the rough conditions, but that was impressive enough. They had both wanted to finish 126 miles this year, but Deby was still having lingering hip issues from a fall she had taken during Cascade Crest 100 Mile Endurance Run in August. With her expertise in running, pacing and crewing for 100 milers, she was a huge help to me and all of the participants.  

photo by Ras
L-R: Lisa Eversgerd, Takao Suzuki, Kathy Vaughan, Deby Kumasaka

     The 42 milers that did the single out n' back were Lisa Eversgerd, Takao Suzuki, Anthony Skierkieweiz, Kathleen Leanord, and Ben Brown. Each had their own unique experience. Each of them had gone into the race with a different goal and a different skill set. It was fun to see the miles unfold for this group.

photo by Ras

     Kathleen and Van ran together, for Van's first out n' back. Kathleen is an experienced ultra runner and did well, finishing with a time of 9:22. She rolled an ankle and experienced some back pain during her run, but despite these set-backs, ran an excellent race and finished 1st woman in the 42 mile distance. She enjoyed resting by the woodstove after a hot shower. Biofreeze helped her ankle and hot split pea soup warmed her up after a long, cold day on the trail. The autumn colors were amazing on the course and Kathleen wants to come back next year to have another great time at H3. 

photo by Ras

     Anthony is also an experienced ultra runner and finished the race as the 1st male with a time of 7:47. His Garmin read 6,050 feet of elevation gain in the 42 miles. Anthony had a speedy run, feeling strong the whole time. He was super happy with how his day had gone. He also wants to return to H3 next year. He loved his schwaag and posed by our dried up flower bed after wards to show his elation at an ultra well run. After coming inside by the woodstove for some hot soup and cold Nuun, Anthony left to drive back home to his daughter and wife, who is 7 ½ months pregnant with their second child. This was his last running getaway for awhile, and he was filled with good energy as he left our home.

photo by Kathy Vaughan

     Lisa took on her first ultra distance race. She is an “ultrapedestrian” in the true sense of the word. She is my cross-country ski partner in the winter. She and I did the Ultrapedestrian Wilderness Challenge in August, hiking the 45 mile Devil's Dome Loop in the Pasayten Wilderness in one go. This would be Lisa's first ultra distance solo hike. 

photo by Ras


With no cut-off preventing her from finishing, Lisa's strength and endurance from working hard all summer as a trail crew supervisor for the Forest Service,  had her prepared to trek the distance out in an astonishing 13 hours and 2 minutes. She smiled the entire time, encouraging others and sending positive vibes along the course. She arrived in the morning with a basket full of homemade garlic bread, topped with her own homegrown garlic; and vegan oatmeal raisin cookies, that fueled Van in her final miles when nothing else was palatable.  The bread was delicious with the hot soup, and the combination offered comfort to the runners whether it was taken in at their finish or their turnaround.

photo by Ras

     Takao is one of our great running photographers we are blessed to have in Washington. He had not completed an ultra for 7 months, but liked the idea of no cut-off. Ras and I were happy to have him come enjoy the landscape that is unique to North Central Washington. He had a great day on the trail, spending some time with Lisa and other time solo. In the end, they came across the finish line together in 13:02. He was happy with that as his finishing time and enjoyed a hot cup of coffee by the woodstove before he drove home to his family. He captured the true essence of the 100 Trail with some artistic and lovely photos. It was awesome having Takao participate in H3. He did not know what to expect, but he was pleasantly surprised. He pulled up on Friday night and got out of his car into the darkness of the Okanogan Highlands, the big night sky filled with stars, the Milky Way visible and mystical. He was impressed with this image and slept in his car, while frost built up on top of it. Anthony camped next to him in his car as well and in the morning, they came in for coffee and the pre-race briefing given by Ras.

photo by Ras


     In the dark of the morning, my dogs barked to let me know another runner had arrived. As I went outside, I could see a headlamp high atop a head. I called out “Good morning” and the answer was a new voice to me. Andrew Dingwall had come from Penticton, British Colombia to run H3. We hadn't met him yet, but I was really happy that he had found our place and would be joining in the event. He was the only 84 mile runner so he would be running two of the 42 mile out n' backs. 

photo by Ras

     Andrew had never run more than a 50k previously, and he had never done any night running during an ultra. He was great to have on the course. He had a very mellow way about him. Happy with everything being offered, he had arrived expecting little to no aid. The hot soups and aid stations were a big surprise. He was eating pizza he had brought with him and even had brought his own Coke. It was fun to be able to provide more for him than he could have imagined, helping him to achieve his goal in a supported way. 

photo by Kathy Vaughan

     He finished with a fast time of 17:37 minutes. His girlfriend Magda arrived at the aid station that Ras captained, the Whistler Canyon Trailhead at Highway 97, to crew Andrew at his 63 mile mark. After he passed through there, she drove up to our home 14 miles away. I took her with me to see him in the middle of the night at the aid station the Hilton Family had been running during the day. He was surprised to see us there, but was happy to have a little bit of a hot potato and some cheering before his final 8 mile stretch. We drove back to our house and were there to see him finish. They both slept until the next morning, before driving back to Canada.

photo by Ras

     Ben was the youngest runner in the event, at 21.  He had only run 18 miles in one shot in the past, so he was also tackling more mileage than he had ever done. He had worked all summer for the Forest Service on their Fire Crew with Lisa's husband Jason. Lisa told Ben about the race only the weekend before, and he decided to sign up. Ben stayed with  Anthony and Andrew up to the 21 mile point. He ran strong and did a great job of staying hydrated. He had eaten a bean and rice burrito at the 21 mile aid station and taken one with him to eat on the climb back up to the Highlands. He was very open to listening to the advice and wisdom of the experienced ultra runners in the group and this helped him finish with a time of 12:22. Unfortunately, he went off course at one point for about 6 miles. He kept a good attitude though, and finished anyway. He ran into Deby and Van in his final few miles, and Deby offered him some food and encouraged him to snack all the way to the finish. He needed this energy to keep moving and to stay warm, now that darkness had fallen. I had driven up the Forest Service road looking for Ben when he had not finished around the same time as Kathleen. Kathleen knew he had passed through the final aid station already, but after an hour went by, I figured he had gotten lost. After talking to Jason on the phone about a plan for finding him, I decided to drive up the road . I was really happy to see his headlamp and even happier to hear him say he was just going to keep moving. He has the true spirit of an ultra runner and I can't wait to see what he tries next.

photo by Ras

     In order for Van to run the 126 mile distance, we needed to help arrange some pacers for her.  Deby was key in these arrangements. She put together a plan that would work, if the runners she came up with would agree to the pacing gig. First, Deby herself would run with Van 8 miles to the 3525 aid station. She would join Van after she reached our house, completing her first 42 mile out n' back with Kathleen. 

photo by Takao Suzuki
L-R: Kathy Vaughan, Jake Hilton, Shona Hilton, Deby Kumasaka, Steve Hilton, Lex Hilton

     When she reached the aid station, Steve Hilton would join her. He had been running the aid station, but she would accept less aid at this spot to have a pacer. I would still accommodate her and Andrew at this spot as much as I could.  Shona would need to go home and sleep so that she could be Van's pacer the next day. It was also time to put her sons to bed, who had been at the aid station all day, helping runners and playing around the campfire. Shona and Steve are neighbors of Ras and I, and also our running partners. Steve would run with Van down to the turnaround for her 2nd time reaching that point. Ras would still be there to offer her aid. Then he would close down that aid station and drive back home, take a nap and run with Van after they got back to our house. 

photo by Ras

     It was impressive to see Van's reserve as she focused on what she needed to do to head out for her 3rd out n' back, having already run 84 miles. The house was warm and cozy and smelled of home cooked food. She was the only runner heading out on the course.  Steve had stuck by her side all night and done a great job of keeping her running just a wee bit faster than she might have chosen. This was his first pacing gig and he did really well. At 3:47 in the morning, after 33 miles of running all night for the first time, he was ready to be back at our house to warm up and enjoy the good feelings of his accomplishment and the support he had offered another runner he had not previously known.

photo by Takao Suzuki

     Ras quietly and competently prepared to head out with Van. They left sometime before 4:30 in the morning after a brief discussion about how they would travel on the trail. Van requested that he run in front of her so that she could just settle into her own pace behind him. She wanted him nearby for a feeling of comfort and safety on the trail in the still dark hours of the morning. She had made it through many dark hours of running already, and now had only about 3 to go. Van has run hundreds of ultras in her running career, and it showed as she arranged her pack, changed into appropriate layers and not once waivered in her plan of running 126 miles on the H3 course, being the first person to ever do so; an Only Van Time. 

photo by Takao Suzuki

     I laid down to rest for a couple of hours. I took a refreshing shower, trying to wake myself back up. I said goodbye to Deby, Kathleen, Magda and Andrew and then went down to meet Van and Ras at about 9:00 am the next morning. I thought of them many times throughout the rest of the dark morning, but I felt such confidence in the two of them on the course together. What a team they made, Van so small, yet with a strength powerful beyond words. Ras so tall and competent in the wilderness. He has traveled many miles alone to accomplish goals that seemed beyond achievable the past few years. They have inspired each other to reach into the unknown and formulate goals; each on their own, yet pushing the other just by coming up with new ideas of where to run and how far.  Now they were out on the trail together, Ras being there for Van while running 126 miles in the remote Okanogan wilderness, literally right out his back door.

     They appeared on the final switchbacks that dumped them into the river valley. They made their way down to my Subaru where I had Van's drop bag, warm robe and a chair for her to sit in out of the wind. I had brought some hot burritos and soup. It was very windy and the clouds obscured any sun that might be shining higher up as it was the day before when other runners were still on the course with Van. It seemed lonely and dreary, but she remained focused. Her hands shaking from the cold, she got her pack ready for her final 21 miles. Shona was ready to join her. She would be just right for Van on the trail. Shona has run this route many times. She and I have trained on this section for several races we've been in together and Shona had a solo run on this route just before Baker Lake. She is great at staying in tune with her running partner and although she had never paced before, she would be a good person to bring Van in to the finish. 

photo by Kathy Vaughan

     They set off up the hill. Van took a burrito with her and had lots of snacks to keep giving her the energy she needed to finish the final 21 miles. With 105 miles completed, she was tired, but still moving well. I went home and rested some. I thought about what food I could take up to the final aid station. I decided to reheat some pasta from the night before, seasoning it lightly and making sure it was at least warm when the ladies arrived at the aid station. I put some of the African Peanut soup in a thermos, gathered some other snacks and a bottle of Coke, and hit the road for one last trip up to the 3525 aid station. 

photo by Kathy Vaughan

     When I got there, the weather was surprisingly harsh. The wind was blowing, the rain was coming down hard and there was a chill to the air that felt like early winter. I went to work right away to build a fire so Van and Shona would have a place to warm up for a few minutes. Steve and his boys had stacked a good amount of fire wood the day before while running the aid station, so it was easy to get a nice fire going quickly. I kept my car running, as its been having trouble starting recently, and kept the heat going full blast. 

photo by Takao Suzuki

   Soon, I heard voices and then Shona hooted. I could see their bright rain jackets and then they got to the aid station. Van was visibly chilly and I offered her some hot food. She asked if she could sit in my car to eat and I was glad I had kept it warm. She got inside and I served her a cup of the hot noodles. Shona had some chips & coke and made a few adjustments. The ladies were there less than 10 minutes before they headed out for the final 8 mile stretch. The weather had become so miserable that it would be important for them to just keep moving steadily. While the warm time in the car had been nice for Van, this made it harder for her to enter the cold, rainy conditions. The rain now had snow mixed in with it. Van had a rain poncho with her that she put over her other warm layers and off they went.

photo by Kathy Vaughan

     A few miles down the Forest Service road, I had a chance to see the ladies one more time. Steve and I met there and transferred aid station supplies to his truck. I had taken down the shelter and closed the aid station before I left. We waited at this intersection to cheer Van on once again. As they passed, they were focused on moving forward, one step at a time. They were cold and slowing down for any reason was not a good idea. Shona, like a mother hen, let us know they were just going to keep moving forward to stay warm. With about 5 miles to go now, the finish was near, yet still far away. They had about a mile and a half climb ahead of them. Van likes this climb and it made her feel good to top out at Haley Divide. After a gel with caffeine, the enjoyable climb behind her and the smell of the oats in the barn, Van got giddy. She chatted and with gas left in her tank, made her way down the final miles along the Forest Service road. 

photo by Ras

     After 33 hours and 16 minutes, Van appeared at our front porch with a big, tired smile on her face. She had done it! The strength it takes to keep on running, while no other runner is on the course attempting the same distance, is really awe inspiring. I am honored to have been able to provide the venue for Van to have this experience. I am happy for Shona, Steve, Ras, Deby and Kathleen to have spent time on the course running with her.  Van is a legend in the ultra running community and I got to see first hand what it takes to maintain that status. 

photo by Ras

     Congratulations to all of the awesome Highland Halloween Hundred Trail Un-Run participants of 2013.  Each person accomplished a new goal and reached beyond a point they had already reached in their endurance adventures. Hosting H3 was meant to have this as an outcome.  Ras and I couldn't be happier with how the race went this year. We are looking forward to the weekend of October 25th and 26th of next year when we will hold the 3rd Annual H3. See you there! 

photo by Ras
Van Phan: First Ever and Only Ever Finisher of the 126 mile distance

2 comments:

  1. Awesome write up Kathy. This event will always be a favorite for me, one where I can go and be with friends and family for a relaxing soul-filling weekend; whether running or supporting it is a wonderful event..

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  2. Deby, You were such a huge support to me and to everyone during H3! I am so sorry you couldn't run it this year. I was impressed with your attitude despite that disappointment. You got in some miles!! I couldn't be happier that you feel relaxed in our home and environment and that it can be such a soul-filling experience. Can't wait for next year!!!

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