Baker Lake 100k - Fourth Time's A Charm

Baker Lake 100k Fat Ass Trail Run:
Fourth Time's A Charm

By Kathy Vaughan

     Kulshan Campground was packed with big trucks and fishing boats. Ras and I found a spot in the corner of the campground, under some huge trees. It was dry and protected from the rain showers that were coming down now and predicted for the following day as well. Our friend Lisa, my adventure bestie, would be meeting us soon and we wanted to have our shelter up before she arrived. The next day we would be running a self-supported 100k, or 63 mile, run along the forested Baker Lake Trail.
     
     Baker Lake 50k was my first race ever. I ran it for the first time in October of 2011 and have run it each Autumn since then. Two winters ago, Terry Sentinella, having taken over as the Race Director for the event, decided to offer a 100k or 50k Fat Ass run on the course. Runners had the option of running the course twice to total the mileage for the 100k, and they could choose to do it any time during the month of  December. He offered a medal for the 50k finishers and a buckle for the 100k finishers. Ras and I chose to run it and ended up taking a 50k finish instead of our planned 100k.  As it turns out, running this trail just two months later than race day, is a whole different story. You can red the trip report here.
     
     In July of 2015 he offered an option of running the 100k Fat Ass again, choosing not to offer a 50k option this time. Ras and I finished the 100k. You can read about our adventure here. This past December, Ras and I again attempted a 100k winter run along Baker Lake, and again had to stop at 50k. The temperatures were in the single digits, the creek crossings were icy and dangerous, and we felt like it was too dangerous to continue. You can read that trip report here and watch the video here. 
     
     Ras and I were determined to get another 100k finish. I had talked up this trail to Lisa over and over again. I did not have to twist her arm to get her to run it with us. This would be Lisa's first 100k trail run, although she has run lots of ultra distance runs with me and she and I finished a 200k winter thru-ski together on the Methow Trails last year. Here is the link to that blog. I knew she was more than ready to run this course, strong and solid. 
     
     Lisa pulled up outside the shelter and called out to us, inside staying dry and preparing for the next day's run. I gave her a big hug and some small pieces of drift wood to use in her hand made pine needle baskets. She and I used to live only fifteen minutes apart from each other in the Okanogan Highlands. Now, Ras and I are living near a beach on Whidbey Island, working for a weeding service this summer and saving money for a thru-hike in the Southwest we are planning for the Fall. It's hard not living so close to my good friend, but sharing trail running adventures together as much as possible and exchanging little gifts of our natural surroundings, helps to keep us connected. Lisa brought me fresh, organic greens from her farm and some homemade green curry paste for Ras.
     
     We spent the rest of the evening preparing for our run and talking through the logistics. We would start at the Baker River Trailhead the following morning, driving our car down to that end at about 3:30 a.m. We would then run back to our camp in order to use our shelter for our “aide station”. We would all have a supply of dry clothing, food and water to use the two times we would reach it for our turn-around. From the Baker River Trailhead to our set-up shelter in the Kulshan Campground would total 15 ¾ miles each time. This is the opposite direction of the official Baker Lake 50k course, but Terry has allowed us to run it this direction for an official finish. This allows us to leave a camp/aide station set up in the campground safe and protected, whereas there is no camping allowed at the Baker Lake Trailhead end of the course.  A Northwest Forest Service Pass is required at that trailhead and the camping is $22.00 per night at Kulshan. 
     
     The rain spattered on top of the shelter, waking me up before the 2:45 alarm sounded. I got up and started making coffee. Ras shut off his alarm and snuggled down deeper into the sleeping bags. He didn't seem too anxious to get out into that weather and I wasn't feeling ready for it yet either. Lisa came inside, after having slept in the back of her truck underneath a dry canopy. We all got ready and drank our coffee, making a thermos of it to have in the car for the finish of our first 50k. 
     
     We loaded our gear and ourselves into our car. Then we drove down to the Baker Lake Trailhead under the dark and rainy morning skies. There were many cars and trucks lining the thirteen mile Forest Service road that led to the trailhead. I wondered if it was just a normal busy summer weekend in the little campgrounds along the lake, or if perhaps it was going to be a busy fishing day on the lake. From the number of boats, trucks, and fishing conversations I had already observed in Kulshan Campground, I figured it was probably the latter.
     
     Arriving at the large lot, we decided to wait out the downpour. I hopped out and got the envelope for the Northwest Forest Service $5.00 fee for the day. Before I knew it, all was quiet in the car. We ended up sleeping for several more hours, waiting for the sheets of rain to stop coming down and getting some additional rest. Ras and I were tired from our weeding job and Lisa had spent hours the previous week working on the garlic harvest at the organic farm she owns and operates with her husband Jason. We all needed more sleep and had decided it would be a good idea to take advantage of this time waiting out the rain storm to catch up on our rest. We were about to expend a lot of energy over what we figured would be about 17 hours. We had no idea what was really in store for us. Running around out in the middle of the woods wouldn't be nearly as much fun if we had anyway.
     

     At just a few minutes after 8:00 a.m., we stepped foot on the trail and began our adventure. The rain was coming down lightly, although there were puddles on the trail and the brush was sopping wet. I had on a 99 cent rain poncho and Lisa had fashioned a skirt out of a kitchen size garbage bag with a draw string. We decided to “Be Bold and Start Cold” and thus had on shorts, skorts and short sleeves underneath the protective rain gear. I wore knee high Smartwool ski socks to keep my feet warmer and drier than short Injinji crew socks would. I knew I could change them at the turn-around and put on my usual Injinji toe socks if need be. 
     
     I was starting out in my Altra Lone Peak 2.0's and had a pair of the Altra Olympus 1.5's, a max cush model, for after the first 50k. I knew my feet would be feeling the mileage then and the extra cush underfoot would feel good. This is something I've been doing for about a year now, when I run long distances and have access to a shoe change. The balls of my feet have been getting sore much sooner into a long run since my Pigtails Challenge 150 mile finish Memorial Day weekend this Spring. I haven't been putting as much time into stretching and rolling out as I should, and I've been suffering the consequences. I've had a couple of other awesome runs since Pigtails, and each time I've gotten crazy sore feet, especially my left foot, which has affected my pace. I had high hopes that this run on the Baker Lake trail would be better. Not long into the run, I could tell that I would have foot pain again.
     
     I led the pace and we all moved along the wet trail, quietly settling into the long day ahead. I felt calm and peaceful amongst the gigantic old growth trees, the thick blankets of moss and the huge ferns surrounding me. The rain felt good against my face and I stayed plenty warm enough. I saw quick movement on the trail, tiny insect like things crawling or hopping rapidly to and fro. I finally stopped to get a closer look and could see that they were the tiniest frogs I had every seen. They were the size of the little insects that flit about on the surface of ponds and behaved in a similar way. I was amazed at what I was seeing. There were thousands of them and as we ran along, we continued to see them for about a three mile stretch of trail. The weather had been so dry for weeks and now these heavy rains were drenching the earth. It seemed to me that the wet conditions must have been forcing the polliwogs to suddenly continue their natural process, on a very large scale. Ras and Lisa were just as puzzled and amazed by this occurrence. Soon though, we were out of the little ecosystem where this was taking place and there would be other wonders to experience. 
     

     We now saw some huge frogs, as Ras and I had seen last July on this trail. We had hoped and expected to see them this time too. I really like frogs and it was fun to see so many of them. The huge ones moved quite slowly, especially in comparison to the miniature ones moving so fast it was hard to not step on them as we ran. 
     
     The sun peaked through the clouds a time or two as we ran this first leg along the lake. I had given Lisa some trail beta and we were now reaching Anderson Creek. A slippery, off camber, log bridge spans the swiftly moving creek. I remembered the second  year I ran the 50k here when two guys in the race helped a line of women across, holding our hands as we stepped off the slippery log. I thought it was sweet of them. Later in the race, another guy, who I later came to know and become friends with, Ryan McKnight, grabbed my hand to keep me from falling off the trail into a shallow ditch as we passed each other. Again, I was impressed with the nice camaraderie. I love the trail running community for all of the support, positivity and encouragement given each other.
     
     Now over the bridge, it was just a short distance to the road that leads downhill for 1 3/4 miles to the dam crossing and the Kulshan Campground. We discussed what we would need to do at the turn-around. We wanted to make it as quick as possible, knowing that our later stops would likely take longer as we got deeper into the miles and needed more time to eat and rest. 

     
     Ras, Lisa and I left the campground a few minutes after 1:00 in the afternoon. I wasn't happy with the pace I was keeping and I knew it was a slow start. We should have been leaving the camp well before 1:00, but there was nothing to do now but look ahead and I vowed to myself to move faster, no matter how much foot pain I was having. I wanted everyone to have a good time and not to feel slowed down by me. As a slower paced runner, I'm often in the back-of-the-pack, although I've been moving ahead just a bit in the pack. This has felt good. I have been happy with my Spring races, how I performed and persevered through challenging distances. I'd finished 1st and only female at Rock Creek 100k in April and 2nd female at Pigtails Challenge 150 Mile.  I knew I could finish this 100k, but I also knew it would be a challenge. I was ready for it.
     
     We had a fun climb after crossing the dam as we hiked towards the single track along the lake. We were in good spirits and laughed as we climbed. It felt good to have nearly 18 of our miles now completed. I planned on taking some ibuprofen and changing into my Olympus once we reached the car to help with the discomfort I was having in my foot. This gave me something to look forward to and a way that I could try to deal with what was happening. A big part of finishing ultras is problem solving. Quitting can't be your first option. Evaluating what tools you have available for yourself and choosing which ones to pull out of the box is how you can keep going. I had tools available and I was going to use them. I wanted to earn that buckle and enjoy more hours of trail time with two of my favorite people.
     

     The first 50k had about 3,500 feet of elevation gain in it; rolling trail and three sets of switchbacks at the Baker River end. This feels fairly moderate in that first 31 miles, but begins to add up into the second 50k. I was mentally determined to run everything runnable, all of the flats and downhills, and to hike all of the hills with purpose. Physically, this was a tougher challenge. Each rock hurt and try as I might, it was hard to keep up a good running pace. I got pretty discouraged and I felt self-conscious. I felt disappointed in myself and wondered if I'd ever run pain free again. I asked Ras and Lisa to lead the pace. I didn't want to fall behind and I thought I would do better, pushing myself to keep up with them. They took off and got a pretty good lead on me. I had mixed feelings about this overall, but I began to relax mentally. I let up on myself and began to give myself encouragement instead.
     
     Finally, we got to the big bridge where Glenn Tachiyama and Takao Suzuki take pictures of the racers on the official race day in October. There were no photographers here now. There was no one to cheer us on to the big lot at the river trailhead. Running and moving for all of these miles and all of these hours, comes from within. It doesn't come from trying to prove anything to anyone other than oneself. 
     
     I started trail and ultrarunning at age 44 to prevent any type of depressive episode from happening when my only daughter left for college. I ran off nearly 50 pounds and did so with only about ½ of my pancreas. I've had three hospitalizations during the time I've been running, due to pancreatitis. I keep on pursuing this lifestyle though, following a low-fat diet and taking pancreatic enzymes daily to prevent further attacks from occurring. I play the game the way I find interesting and fulfilling. I sometimes use terms to describe the type of run I am attempting or pursuing for the purpose of distinguishing it from another type of run. This self-supported 100k was entirely different and way more difficult than the organized and supported Rock Creek 100k I'd run in April. I aim to inspire others and encourage others. I know it's possible for someone who sets their mind to it to pursue this way of life also.
     

     Ras, Lisa and I all climbed inside the car. Mosquitoes were thick in the air and I wanted to get away from them so I could change into some dry layers without getting bitten up too badly. I snacked on some food and sunk into the front car seat, resting while I ate. I changed into some long tights, Injinji's and the Altra Olympus my feet had been craving. Lisa climbed into the very back of our Suzuki and changed into dry layers as well. Ras made all of the adjustments he needed to make and by the time we hit the trail again, it was just getting dark. We had our headlamps ready for the nighttime run, but waited until the last minute to turn them on. It's nice moving for as long as possible once the light changes at dusk. I like getting used to the change in atmosphere before having the bright light on my head lead my way down the trail. I was borrowing Ras' new Black Diamond Polar Icon headlamp. It was supposed to be brighter and better and this would hopefully help with my nighttime pace.
     
     The first stretch back out, along the bottoms of the Baker River, were easy and pleasant. We all moved along at a good running pace and it felt good to be starting our 2nd 50k. We all had our music or book plugged in, choosing to use distraction for the first miles. It was fun to have my favorite raggae tunes playing in my ear, while I soaked up the last of any remaining light in the forest. We were quiet and focused as we moved along the trail. My max cush underfoot felt awesome. The anti-inflammatories had kicked in and I felt very motivated as the miles melted away, into the night.
     
     The trek back toward Kulshan seemed to take forever. We were all sleepy on the trail and getting the drowsies. We decided that once we got back to Kulshan, we would lay down for an hour and sleep. We would then get up and have coffee, hot soup and Lisa's cold Asian salad, loaded with veggies and flavor. This would give us the energy we needed to finish this 100k run. We were too tired to stay awake on the trail and it slowed our pace to a drunken-like stumble at times. We had already laid down on the trail for numerous naps and we needed to just fall soundly asleep for a spell. This helped me tremendously during Pigtails. I knew it would help now.
     

     I was completely out of it, as I set my alarm. I crawled into my sleeping bag and don't even remember falling asleep. Lisa got into the back of her truck and Ras got in the sleeping bag beside me at some point; I was already nearly comatose when he did so. 
     
     I was the first to awaken. I don't know if I heard the alarm go off or not. I just knew it was time to hop back up and get on the trail. The clock was ticking and even though our finishing time was already going to be outrageous, I didn't want it to be any slower. My original goal had been to finish faster than last summer, but that goal had been squashed many hours ago. We were looking at a 30 hour finish.
     
     I went to the back of Lisa's truck and called out to her. She was soon inside the shelter, finishing up her preparations to get back out there for our final leg. Ras hadn't stirred yet, but I knew with the noise Lisa and I were making, he would be up and getting ready shortly. I made coffee for everyone and we changed into layers appropriate for the new day, a sunny morning, the rain long since having stopped.
     
     Everyone was ready pretty quickly and we began hiking out of Kulshan camp, loosening up our sore muscles and our tight feet. We hiked at a good clip and mixed in running on the less steep section of the road. Before we knew it, we were at the single track section and moving towards Anderson Creek, Anderson Point, and Maple Grove Campground. We were all fully awake now and no one needed to stop for a nap. We had our first view of a small portion of the flank of Baker. The temperature was warm, but not hot, perfect for a run in the woods. 
     
     My mind was full of thoughts of the finish, of a good meal, comfy clothes, a buckle. Lisa led the way and kept a good pace. She called out breaks ahead of time and we stopped briefly at Maple Grove and Noisy Creek Campgrounds for short rests. Our focus was on the finish though, and we knew we had it now. It had been a fun, challenging, adventurous time along Baker Lake and Baker River. We had shared many laughs; kept each other company in the night; conversed about a myriad of topics, all the while running & hiking 63 miles, for the fun of it. 
      

     Back at the car, Ras took a couple of pictures of Lisa and I. He had been teasing us about our choice of “morning after” running attire, I in my purple Smartwool tights and Lisa in a torquioise colored long sleeve, lightweight tech sweater. He said it looked like we were running in our pajamas. After all of the sleep running, we had both decided to wear cozy clothes for our final 15 ¾ mile stretch. I stopped my watch when we got back to the lot and glanced down to see a finishing time of 30:35. It's a time that reflects what a self-supported, 100k trail run can be like if one takes the time to rest, sleep, and picnic. It wasn't my top performance, but it was at the top of my list of great experiences for this summer. After a move to a new area, in a neighborhood rather than in the middle of the woods; working a new job five days a week, of hard physical labor; leaving behind some of my solitude and independence for the time being; I am happy that I can still prioritize and experience a run like this. 
     
     To run with Lisa, Ras and the frogs; to hear the wind rustle the leaves and cause the trees to squeak together eerily; to move through the quiet of the night, hearing the birds sing as they awaken for the day; to test my limits of physical and mental endurance: I feel like I'm thriving, living at my fullest, during these long runs. I am at my best and I'm challenged to keep the strength in me; to not melt into my worst. There are highs and lows along the way. I take away the feeling of peace and gratitude when I leave the trail. I share this essence with others I encounter through my blog writing, my stories I tell to those I'm around and; my eagerness to teach others how they too can experience the joy of moving along a trail in the wilderness. 
     
      
    FOOD LIST
1. Vegetarian Bean & Rice Burritos – 4
2. Black Cherry Clif Blocks
3. Clif Bars – Chocolate Brownie, Chocolate Chip,  Peanut Butter Toffee Buzz, Carrot Cake
4. “Tings” Baked Corn Snacks
5. Indian Spiced Cracker mix by Bhutan
6. Black Bean Soup by Trader Joe's
7. Chia Seed/Lemonade Drink
8. 2 baggies of assorted gel candies/sports gel chews
9. Dark Chocolate covered raisins
10. Coffee
11. 1 Energy Drink
12. 2 packages Stonewall's soy jerkey “Wild” flavor

Baker Lake New Year's Eve Run

Baker Lake New Year's Eve Run:
A Frigid 50k in a Frozen Forest

By Kathy Vaughan

     The rhythmic sound of crunching footsteps and heavy breathing were all that I could hear as the beam of my headlamp led me off into the distance along the winding trail. There was a frozen world all around me, but I could only see what was just ahead. Barely ten minutes into the run, I crossed the Baker River on a snowed over suspension bridge and continued towards the sounds of rushing creeks ahead in the darkness.

     Ras and I had camped at Kulshan Campground the night before, staying warm under layers of sleeping bags and blankets in the single digit temperatures. We awoke at 2:30 in the morning to start heating water to fill two thermoses of coffee, one for either end of the 15.5 mile out-and-back trail we planned on running four times. We would have a change of clothes, food and water at both ends as well. We were all set to run the self-supported Baker Lake 100k Fat Ass. 

Watch 'Out Of Darkness', the companion video to this trip report.

     First, we had to drive to the Baker River Trailhead at the other end of our out-and-back route to begin. Our first leg would be running back towards our awaiting camp. We parked the car and made our final preparations. It was now time to start. When we returned to the car in the afternoon, we would have completed 31.5 miles of our intended 63 mile distance for the day.

     As we crossed more and more creeks along the trail, we began to see how much they were slowing us down. Many were swollen and braided. The crossings were tricky and took time. The rocks were glazed over with slick ice and so we had to test each rock before we could trust it. The creek crossings were so icy and treacherous that the local fauna was using the bridges instead of getting their feet wet. This was evidenced by almost perfect bobcat prints melted into the icy bridge surfaces by warm feline paws. One creek we crossed by shimmying over a mossy, slanted log and another one Ras had to throw a huge rock in to use as a way to step up to a larger boulder. This was taking a lot of energy and I started realizing doing this for all of the creeks, for four out-and-backs along this trail, was going to become daunting and maybe even dangerous. Slipping into one of these creeks and getting soaked in cold temperatures like we were experiencing on the trail could quickly become a life or death situation. 

     In between crossings and icy patches on the trail, I tried to pick up the pace and run strong. The dark didn't slow me down on the smoother sections of single track and I tried to keep up a good tempo on sections where I had to pick my way through rocks. Ras followed behind and soon we had some miles under our belts. The sky stayed pitch black forever it seemed and stars twinkled above. Finally, the sky lightened in the distance and soon the snowy white peak of Mt. Baker appeared majestically on the opposite side of the lake. I couldn't wait for this light in the sky created by the rising sun to bring a rise in the day's temperature. The cold made it so we kept moving well, not wanting to stop for even the slightest minute. My merino wool under layer was beginning to feel damp and I planned on changing into a dry one as soon as I got to the camp. I kept my wool buff pulled around my face, an additional wool hat on my head and the hoods from my sweater and jacket pulled up over my head as well. 

     As we moved along the trail, we were also slowed by many blow downs and debris. Some trees were huge to climb over; some still had thick branches we had to push and crawl our way through and still others had frozen, slick surfaces, making stepping around and over them challenging.  

    This was the seventh time I have run this trail, one other time as a 100k Fat Ass in the summer, and I knew it pretty well. There were definite landmarks I knew to look for and we were passing by familiar established camps. I had made it through all of those miles of single track and creek crossings without soaking my feet, but I made the wrong choice about what way to head through a flooded section on the road and soaked my right foot all the way through not even two miles from our turn around point. I would now be changing into dry socks as well and trying to dry my Altra Lone Peak 2.0 in the bathroom at the campground, using the hand blow dryer. I loved that feature of this campground bathroom and had looked forward to getting warm in there for a few minutes anyway.

     After about 4 hours of running, Ras and I got to our First Up shelter. We each grabbed what we needed from our supplies and headed into our designated bathrooms to do what we needed in order to head back out into the winter weather. I poured myself coffee from the thermos, grabbed some baked Thai seasoned tofu and my dry sweater and socks. I pulled my down puffy from my pack to help keep me warm while I ate and dried my shoes and Buff, damp from my condensation. I peaked my head out the door to see if Ras was ready, and continued with my stuff until he was done. Then we put what we needed back away in our Easy Up shelter and began our climb back up the road towards the Baker Dam and the single track trail that would take us to Baker River and our car of supplies.

     We saw a backpacker heading onto the single track too, just as we approached it after our 1 ¾ mile climb. He was pretty loaded down and looked to be in for a big adventure. After exchanging friendly greetings with him, it seemed like he was just going out to spend New Year's Eve alone in the woods, a great way to bring in the New Year. We wished him well and trotted off down the trail.

     We were listening to our Mp3 players now and not visiting much. The daytime temperatures were noticeably warmer and even comfortable. I was down to a single Smartwool, with an additional wool sweater tied around my waist to put on if needed, and to help keep my backside warmer. It worked pretty well. We hit a really nice sunny patch, complete with mossy sitting logs and decided to take advantage of this moment of warmth. We soaked in the sun while having a snack and then continued on our way. I enjoyed this section and this time of day quite a bit and I was really feeling confident about our ability to complete the mileage. There are fewer creek crossings on the end of the trail closer to the Kulshan Campground and the going was quicker and smoother.

     But after about 3 ½ more hours, the sun dipped lower in the sky, the creek crossings increased and the coming night would bring on even colder temperatures once again. I kept pushing myself along the single track, running up gentle hills and letting my pace open up on downhills. I became used to the frosty, crunchy surface, in contrast to the frozen dirt or icy patches. Each section took different care and it made for exciting running. I remember the snow covered bridge crossing with bobcat tracks that was still ahead and the 3 sets of downhill switchbacks. I knew it would feel long at the end, longer than finishing a supported 50k where my pack was light and friendly faces greeted me, filling my water bottles and handing me snacks. There had been frozen moments of loneliness in the hours so far and I wondered how I would go on all night for this many hours more, for a second 50k on this trail in these conditions. I so wanted to go on and earn a buckle, and struggle through the mental and physical ups and downs it takes to  complete something like this. 

     We got to the final section of the trail that meanders through the Baker River bottoms and runs alongside the river itself for a stretch. It passes by rocky caves, where drafts of cold air are evident in the summer, but at this time of the year, the cave's air felt warmer than the outside air as we passed. Now it was just time to push it out strong all the way back to the car. The trail was fairly rolling or flat and there were no good excuses to not run. I got to the car, not knowing how Ras was feeling, but after spending many miles on the trails with him, I knew he wasn't his regular self. As soon as we got in the car and began to let it idle, the heat started warming us. I changed into another dry Smartwool sweater, dry sports bra, and dry socks. I opened my Bombay Potatoes Tasty Bites meal and began snacking, silently visualizing the rest of the run. I poured coffee for myself into my travel mug and sipped on the hot drink gratefully. It felt so good to have something hot to drink. 

Notches, like the one pictured above, were cut into trees to place a springboard for loggers to stand on. This allowed them to make their felling cuts above the swell at the base of the tree.

     Finally, Ras admitted he wasn't feeling well. He hadn't felt right from the beginning of the day. He knew he could complete the distance, but he really didn't have a strong desire to finish it in these conditions. He was concerned about the creek crossings through the night and the danger a dunking could put us in. I agreed that the crossings were dangerous. With this first half having taken us 10:31 to complete and still needing to finish this break and have another one at the Kulshan end, I just knew it could take another 12 hours to complete the 100k. Once out on the trail, our only option would be to run the 15.5 miles and spend at least 5 more hours to get to Kulshan. That would still leave our car at the other end, not at the camp. We would still want to run back to it for the final 15.5 mile stretch. Heading back out onto the trail was a big commitment.   

     I've run through many miles of pain or hard-going before. I knew I could do it. I just didn't think it was smart to do it in the cold temperatures with potentially sketchy water crossings. It was hard enough to see the ice on the rocks and scout the crossings in the light in a fresher state; the dark and tiredness brought a different challenge. A part of me wanted to attempt this challenge and see that I could finish it. I wanted to head back out on the 31.5 mile commitment. Because the wiser part of me spoke louder, and because of the team aspect of this run, the decision was made together to not continue. 


GEAR LISTS

Kathy

1. Ultimate Directions Peter Bakwin vest with 2 bottles carried up front
2. Hammer Nutrition Perpetuem Caffe Latte flavor – 1 10 0z flask consumed (I had other's ready, although I did not end up using them)
3. Tasty Bites Bombay Potatoes
4. Gu Salted Caramel, Vanilla and Strawberry Banana gels
5. Caffe Latte Chia Gel from Chris Barry @ Seven Hills Running Shop
6. Coffee from thermos prepared in the early morning
7. Wildwood Baked SprouTofu Royal Thai flavor – ½ package 
8. Smartwool Knee High Length socks x2 (extra pair in pack in case of delay, with soaked feet, due to injury)
9. Carhart Wool/nylon Blend socks (changed into these at the half way point)
10. Buff Wear brand merino wool buff
11. Smartwool brand merino wool neck warmer
12. Felted wool ear flap hat
13. Smartwool mid-weight sweaters, 1 with hood x3
14. Wool v neck sweater
15. Brooks Thermal weight hooded jacket
16. mp3 player by Sony
17. Black Diamond headlamp with fresh batteries and 3 extra AAAs in a ziplock baggie
18. neoprene ankle wrap
19. chemical handwarmer packets x2; 1 footwarmer packet; 1 toe warmer packet with adhesive backings in case of IT Band flareup
20. Ibex brand merino wool tights
21. Sugoio Insulated tights
22. Altra Lone Peak 2.0s
23. Marmot Down Puffy Jacket carried in pack
24. Mont Bell Down Puffy Pants carried in pack
25. Firestarter sticks x2 plus a new Bic lighter
26. Ziplock baggie of 3 Tums, 2 Reed's Ginger Chews, 8 ibuprofen, 2 Aleve, 1 ½ Vicodin (in case of pancreatic attack, enough to alleviate pain so I can get myself out to help)
27. one Iced Ginger Clif Bar
28. Burton Light Weight Snowboading Gloves in morning and Swix Cross Country Ski gloves in the warmer afternoon; kept dry pair of Swix gloves in pack as hands perspire and a dry pair of gloves to put on in an emergency stop situation is important
29. Dirty Girl pink camouflage gaiters
     
  
Ras

1. What An Adventure (WAA) Ultra Bag
2. Altra Lone Peak 2.0s 
3. Injinji toe socks
4. Smartwool light weight base layer
5. Pendleton wool button up shirt
6. Polar Penguin insulated work gloves
7. UltraPedestrian fleece beanie
8. Buff Wear brand merino wool buff
9. Camouflage fleece beanie
10. Dirty Girl Camouflage gaiters
11. Black Diamond headlamp with fresh batteries and 3 extra AAAs 
12. Sugoi insulated tights
13. coffee from thermos 
14. Maple Almond Butter sandwiches on Ezekiel 4:9 bread
15. Clif Bar
16. GoPro Hero3
17. Black Diamond Ultradistance Z-poles, one collapsed in my pack, one used as a camera boom
18. REI merino wool glove liners and Swix overmits (carried but didn't use)
19. Mont Bell synthetic puffy (carried but didn't use)
20. Smartwool arm sleeves (carried but didn't use)
21. Tasty Bites Bombay Potatoes and coffee during the drive to the trailhead
22. Tasty Bites Punjab Eggplant when we returned to the car
23. Sony Walkman mp3 player
24. SPOT transponder

Baker Lake 100k Fat Ass Trip Report

Baker Lake 100k Fat Ass Trail Run:
Friending Frogs, Ferns & Five Finishes To Become A Hall of Famer

By Kathy Vaughan

     Two fisherman came towards Ras and I as we started out on our 63 mile run at around 7 a.m., the light having been in the sky for almost 3 hours now. It didn't look like they had caught anything, except a startle as they saw two runners coming towards them in the cool of the morning along Baker River. Ras and I had wanted to get an earlier start than this, but we had traveled across the North Cascades Highway to reach the Kulshan Campground around 10 p.m. The night before, after having gotten a surprise day off from our summer work at a local organic fruit orchard. The apricots needed more time to ripen and this gave us just the window of opportunity we had been looking for to run the Fat Ass Style 100k offered by Terry Sentinella, the race director of the official Baker Lake 50k Trail Run held the beginning of each October. Baker Lake 50k had been my first ultra, my first trail race, and my first organized event of any kind back in 2011 and I had run it every year since. I was determined to finish this 100k distance, not knowing what it would feel like to be running that second 50k until I was actually doing it.

     Ras and I had set out to run the 100k, Fat Ass style, in November, when Terry had offered it last year. The weather was frigid and wet, the days were shorter and we got 50k in before we called it due to running in standing ice water as snow continued to fall on us. This time around, we were using the same system we had used in November, by setting up a camp at Kulshan Campground and beginning the run at the Baker River Trailhead parking area on the other end of the lake, 15.5 miles away. We would run to our camp to change layers and access food and then run back to Baker River Trail head, twice. We had a cooler, stocked with burritos, veggie wraps and energy drinks. We had a bag of ice cubes to fill our water bottles with ice and the campground itself had a spigot we could use. Our car would be at the Baker River Trail head, stocked with a cooler, food and fresh clothing options as well. We would cover each 15.5 mile stretch, without support or filtering water, but then have a good resupply session at each turn around spot.

     The first 15.5 miles went smoothly. I started to sweat almost immediately from the humidity that hung in the damp, rich forest canopy. I enjoyed the views of the river as it braided it's way toward the lake. There were many alder trees, thimble berry bushes, salmon berries, horsetail, broad & narrow leaf plantain and varying grasses growing in the river valley. The trail crossed the Baker River on a sturdy suspension bridge. The trail was gentle and smooth, easy to start out the run at a good pace. Soon, we were to the lake and crossing bridges over drainages coming down off the steep hillside to our left. A rustling in the bushes drew our attention to a mama bear. We at first didn't see her young cub, but heard it as it climbed up a large fir tree. We said hi to the bear and then moved past it calmly. She stayed with her cub as we passed. It energized us to have this bear sighting. Ras and I had seen a yearling bear just 2 days previous in the East Pasayten Wilderness while on a portering job. I like seeing these wild creatures, so big and powerful, yet mostly wanting nothing more than to be left alone. In all of the bear sightings I've had over the years, they've always vanished into the wilderness as quickly as they could. The cubs have always climbed trees while the mother stays below. I respect the protectiveness they show of their young. Ras would sometimes joke with me while our daughter, Angela, was growing up, that I was like a mama Grizzly.

     The old growth trees stood like majestic giants along the trail, causing us to occasionally point out one of these beauties to each other. The old trees were mostly cedar and hemlock. The deep greens and lush undergrowth were pleasing to the eye. Ras and I live in the north central part of Washington, where the forests have been logged of almost all old growth; it is a rare joy to see ferns growing and the forest floor more open, hosting wild rose bushes, pine grass, lupine, currants, wild strawberries, and aspen groves. There are only a couple of cedar groves left in our area, special spots known only to a few locals.

     I love spending time in these rich forests on the western side of the Cascade range. Ras and I ran quietly for miles, taking in everything this forest and the lakeside views had to offer. After about 14 miles, we were off the single track and on dirt road, for the final descent to the Baker Dam. We crossed the dam, Mt. Baker nearly within an arm's reach, and then finished our first of four 15.5 mile legs.

     We ran up to our awaiting tent. The campground was peaceful yet active. Families were enjoying a nice summer day and an old timer had arrived, setting up his trailer in the camp neighboring ours. He watched us, seemingly curious about where we had come from and what we had planned. Ras ate a burrito he had made for himself, and I discovered that the spinach tortilla I'd used to put together a veggie wrap had become a soggy mess. I couldn't eat it. I had made two of these for the day, already cutting myself a little short. I had other food with me, but these wraps were meant to be my lunch and dinner, a little more sustenance than the Clif bars, gels and package of Clif Blocks I had brought. The last minute decision to drive over to Baker Lake and run 100k, had meant I'd put less time and energy into preparing food for the run than I normally did. While Ras was making his burritos, I made the decision to try to use up these spinach tortillas I had and stick with raw veggies rather than beans and rice. I should have stuck with our normal standby, bean & rice burritos. “Nothing new on race day” is a saying you hear in the running community. I've changed it to “Nothing new on adventure day”.

     We left Kulshan Campground after nearly 45 minutes spent adding new bars and other snacks to our packs, refilling our water bottles and mixing in a Nuun tablet, eating and resting. We decided that we would move steadily for each 15.5 mile stretch and take rests at each end as needed. We hiked the paved section to the dam, ran across it and then continued the steep dirt road climb back to the single track. We had seen a senior citizens' hiking group coming towards us as we finished this stretch on our way to Kulshan nearly an hour ago. We were now seeing this same group as they made their return hike back to their cars. They were spread apart now and very curious as to what we were up to, running towards them from the opposite direction. We answered their questions in whatever format seemed appropriate, depending on to whom we were speaking. Most folks would be to overwhelmed if we tried to explain we were going to run the length of this trail four times. One friendly man understood what we were in the middle of, as he had been on the trail in the fall when the official Baker Lake 50k and 100k trail race was being held. He had an understanding of ultra running and he cheered us on. I liked seeing this diverse group, trekking poles and oversized packs, proud of being on this hike they'd likely planned for weeks.

     It was now midday and the sun was hot. The humidity hung heavy and we continued to drip sweat. The creek drainages offered a wonderfully cool breeze, the air cold from the mountain streams. I wetted my bandana and Altra visor at each of these creeks, splashing water on my face as I did so. This helped keep my body temperature cooler. Nearly to the Baker River again after having run the length of the trail a second time, Ras and I stopped at a large bridge to take in the cold air coming off the hillside, being washed downstream with the ice cold water. He wet his dreadlocks and splashed water all over him. I wet my bandana and sat in the soft moss in the cool shade of a large tree. We wanted to keep making good progress on the trail, but we also knew that taking care of ourselves in this heat was important and would allow us to complete this run. Lowering our core body temperatures would keep us safe. We both love finding special spots along the trail to enjoy what nature has provided. This was one of them.

     After 9 hours of running, hiking and enjoying mountain streams, we made it to the Baker River Trailhead, where our car and cold drinks were waiting. At this turn around, I changed into dry Smart Wool toe socks and my max cushion Olympus. I had been wearing my Lone Peaks and they were giving me all of the traction and maneauverability I needed. I was now ready for some max cushion, my feet feeling the 31 miles they'd taken me so far. I have done this several times now on really long runs, starting out in the Lone Peaks and switching to the Olympus at the half way point, when my feet are ready for some max cushion love. This way, I get to run in both of my favorite shoes and enjoy the benefits of both styles. (Ras did the opposite, running the first 50k in the new Altra Paradigm sent to him by Phil at Seven Hills Running Shop, then changing into his trusty Lone Peaks for the second 50k.) As an Alta Ambassador, I'm blessed with owning both pairs and always interested in how they function in differing conditions, allowing me to share this information with others.

     As a newbie ultrarunner in 2011, I ran this very course and rolled an ankle after only a couple of miles. I then rolled it a 2^nd time about ten miles deep, yet still refused to quit the race. This experience slowed me down for over a year, on downhill and rocky trail, nervous about reinjuring my ankle. Now, with a lot more experience and confidence, I was able to put on the Olympus, which has less traction than the Lone Peak, and know that I could handle the more technical sections of trail without the more aggressive lug.

     It felt good to sit down on the car seat while I changed into dry socks and the Olympus. I slammed a sugar-free, ice cold Rockstar energy drink, cherry flavored. What a treat! I like to trick myself into thinking the B vitamins, taurine and caffeine give me a much needed boost, but in reality, it just tastes good. I don't drink alcohol or soda, so this is the beverage of choice I turn to when I'm wanting a treat or reward during a hard endurance effort.

     I switched out of my Ultimate Directions PB vest into a Nathan vest. The UD pack, which has water bottles riding up front, was bruising my ribs. I loaded the Nathan vest, included my headlmap and extra batteries and mentally prepared myself to head out for a second 50k. I knew that once I got going, I would settle into the distance. Ras took care of his needs as well and we started off along the Baker River again. We began hiking, finishing the food we had been eating and softly chatting with each other about some of our strategies for the second half and giving each other positive feedback about how well our run had gone so far, despite the high humidity.

     I had changed into a dry Salomon skort, my favorite skort because the inner shorts provide compression and do not ride up while running, and I had hung my Altra shirt to dry, while we were on our last break. Starting out in fresh, dry clothing and different shoes, was a luxury I appreciated. Many of my runs are unsupported, and there is no option but to stay in the clothing and shoes in which I start. On my 800 mile thru hike of the Arizona Trail I'd completed in May with Ras, we both hiked in our same outfit every day, washing our clothes out whenever we had a chance to be by an appropriate water source. We were hiking in a minimalist style and carrying as little gear with us as possible. On the AZT a fresh outfit to change into would have been an unnecessary luxury, as pack weight in food and water was the priority.

     The air had not begun to cool and the thick mugginess was still present. We listened to our mp3 players and made our way along the trail, now mixing in more hiking on the steeper sections as the miles began to take their toll on our bodies. The course gains a total of about 7,000 feet in elevation, which makes for a mostly rolling trail, with only a few sets of switchbacks. The trail winds along a high point in one section, away from the thick forest canopy and exposed to the breeze coming off of the large lake. It felt so good to be in this more open air. We picked up the pace and before we knew it, we were running down the dirt road for the 2^nd time, almost to the dam crossing and then Kulshan Campground for our final turnaround point.

     Darkness had settled over the trail now and with it, a slight cooling in the temperature. I still felt sweaty, yet with the cooler air temperatures, it had become even more uncomfortable. At times I felt clammy & cold, and then I would feel uncomfortably hot. I had changed into a long sleeved shirt when we got to Kulshan, thinking I was going to feel cooler in the night. I had to keep pulling up my sweater to get some air to my clammy skin. I also began to feel drowsy, the dark night progressing as we worked to finish up the miles.

     The moonlight shone down on us and cast a dim light over the lake. The grand outlines of Mt. Baker and Shuksan could be seen in the distance, the moon allowing just enough light in the sky. We had gotten inside the tent at Kulshan to stay warm on our break. We decided to get under the sleeping bag, but our damp clothing and clammy skin wouldn't dry enough to allow us any comfort during the rest. Ras suggested we take a several hour nap and then finish off the last leg. He would need to drive us back to the Okanogan when we finished, and at that time we had thought we would just drive straight to work at the orchard. He thought the nap would help. I just wanted to take a brief rest and then get this run done. I knew the final 15.5 miles could possibly be a suffer fest, but I also knew I could do it. And I was ready to do it.

     Falling asleep while running/hiking in the night is a very disorienting thing to experience. My breathing began to change to a deep, relaxed style, the way one breathes when lying in bed ready to fall asleep for the night. I would start to have little dreams and then find myself off to the side of the trail, stumbling. The music I had playing in one ear had sounds to it that would sometimes startle me and for a moment I'd think it was coming from something in the woods. At several points along the way, we gave in to the tiredness and took very short trailside naps. The first time we did this, I had been stumbling along quietly, trying to stay awake. I did not know that Ras was struggling in this same way until he said, “I'm going to try to make it to Kevin's aid station, but I really need to sit down and take a short nap.” I was so relieved to hear him say this, as I was fantasizing about snuggling down in a soft bed of moss. Each place that looked even remotely inviting along the trail as we passed, would send me into one of these fantasies. Our friend Kevin Douglas had captained the Maple Grove aid station during the Baker Lake Trail Runs in the fall, so we now referred to this spot as “Kevin's Aid Station.”

     It seemed to take forever to get to Kevin's spot, but when we did we both remembered some nice logs surrounded by grasses that would be the perfect place to get a little rest before pushing forward. We kept our packs on but turned out our headlamps as we nestled into our sleeping spots. I wanted to keep a balance between fully sinking into the ground and allowing myself to sleep, yet not going into a deep enough sleep from which I would not awaken in 10 minutes or less. From Kevin's, Ras and I still had 10 miles to go. We could not afford to nap for too long.

     We got up from this rest and continued along the trail. Large frogs were enjoying the damp nighttime trail and sometimes it was hard to not step on them. We must have seen over 50 frogs, once darkness had come. By headlamp, the frogs' little eyes glowed in the dark while they slowly crawled off the trail, into the bushes along it's edge, more scared of us than we were of them. We saw only a couple of smaller frogs, most of them were large and pokey.

     Suddenly, Ras called out “What's that?” I looked ahead in the trail and saw a small, smoothed off stump in the middle of the path. Ras thought he had seen a calico cat, ready to go down into a burrow in the trail. We had been seeing many holes in the middle of the trail, made by marmots or ground squirrels. I told Ras he was hallucinating. He told me, no, it was merely a figment. We were both tired.

     Picking, sorting and packing organic fruit on our feet for nine hour work days had not prepped us well, as far as rest was concerned. We were tired going into this run, and now that night had fallen, we were just very sleepy. We took several more of this type of a trail side nap. Finally, we could see the sky lightening and the lake was once more fully visible. I could see the end of the lake, the Baker River dumping into it, bringing with it the Sockeye salmon that the floatilla of fishing boats had been after when we started this run the previous morning. I was ready to be out of the forest, running along the river, and finishing up at the car before too much light was in the sky.

     Ras and I passed by the cave entrances that had sent a draft of cold air our way as we passed them earlier in the day. We passed by the huckleberry and thimble berry bushes that had offered us juicy treats as we ran by their bushes in the hot daylight hours. Ras looked at his watch and said if we ran with everything we had left in us for the final river stretch, we could finish in under 23 hours. We pushed as hard as we could, leaving it all on the trail, to come in with a finishing time on this self-supported 100k of 22 hours 49 minutes.

     We were so happy to be done. We had just completed our 5^th Baker Lake run, the place where it all began for me 3 years ago, where I had my first ultra finish. Now, I had earned a spot in the Baker Lake Hall of Fame for having five finishes on this course. And I'd completed my first 100k. I can't wait to get that belt buckle. The middle of the night naps and tears had been replaced with the day's first light, a big smile on my face and endorphins raging throughout my system. Announcing to Ras on that last leg that I was not going to run Baker Lake 50k again in the fall, was premature. New rule: “No making proclamations of what you will never ever do again when you are in the throes of an adventure.” Now, my goal is to run along that lake again, the maple trees colorful and fragrant with their fall foliage, having a blast doing it, setting a course PR for myself in the process.


     We drove back to our tent at the Kulshan Campground and crawled inside. Ras was asleep and snoring within minutes. I tend to toss and turn after a big run, my feet aching and my mind racing with memories of what I have just done. I rested for a couple of hours and then got up to make veggie burgers and coffee. I visited with the old timer camping next to us and enjoyed the relaxation of being in the scenic campsite, my year long goal of running the Baker Lake 100k now accomplished.