Baker Lake New Year's Eve Run

Baker Lake New Year's Eve Run:
A Frigid 50k in a Frozen Forest

By Kathy Vaughan

     The rhythmic sound of crunching footsteps and heavy breathing were all that I could hear as the beam of my headlamp led me off into the distance along the winding trail. There was a frozen world all around me, but I could only see what was just ahead. Barely ten minutes into the run, I crossed the Baker River on a snowed over suspension bridge and continued towards the sounds of rushing creeks ahead in the darkness.

     Ras and I had camped at Kulshan Campground the night before, staying warm under layers of sleeping bags and blankets in the single digit temperatures. We awoke at 2:30 in the morning to start heating water to fill two thermoses of coffee, one for either end of the 15.5 mile out-and-back trail we planned on running four times. We would have a change of clothes, food and water at both ends as well. We were all set to run the self-supported Baker Lake 100k Fat Ass. 

Watch 'Out Of Darkness', the companion video to this trip report.

     First, we had to drive to the Baker River Trailhead at the other end of our out-and-back route to begin. Our first leg would be running back towards our awaiting camp. We parked the car and made our final preparations. It was now time to start. When we returned to the car in the afternoon, we would have completed 31.5 miles of our intended 63 mile distance for the day.

     As we crossed more and more creeks along the trail, we began to see how much they were slowing us down. Many were swollen and braided. The crossings were tricky and took time. The rocks were glazed over with slick ice and so we had to test each rock before we could trust it. The creek crossings were so icy and treacherous that the local fauna was using the bridges instead of getting their feet wet. This was evidenced by almost perfect bobcat prints melted into the icy bridge surfaces by warm feline paws. One creek we crossed by shimmying over a mossy, slanted log and another one Ras had to throw a huge rock in to use as a way to step up to a larger boulder. This was taking a lot of energy and I started realizing doing this for all of the creeks, for four out-and-backs along this trail, was going to become daunting and maybe even dangerous. Slipping into one of these creeks and getting soaked in cold temperatures like we were experiencing on the trail could quickly become a life or death situation. 

     In between crossings and icy patches on the trail, I tried to pick up the pace and run strong. The dark didn't slow me down on the smoother sections of single track and I tried to keep up a good tempo on sections where I had to pick my way through rocks. Ras followed behind and soon we had some miles under our belts. The sky stayed pitch black forever it seemed and stars twinkled above. Finally, the sky lightened in the distance and soon the snowy white peak of Mt. Baker appeared majestically on the opposite side of the lake. I couldn't wait for this light in the sky created by the rising sun to bring a rise in the day's temperature. The cold made it so we kept moving well, not wanting to stop for even the slightest minute. My merino wool under layer was beginning to feel damp and I planned on changing into a dry one as soon as I got to the camp. I kept my wool buff pulled around my face, an additional wool hat on my head and the hoods from my sweater and jacket pulled up over my head as well. 

     As we moved along the trail, we were also slowed by many blow downs and debris. Some trees were huge to climb over; some still had thick branches we had to push and crawl our way through and still others had frozen, slick surfaces, making stepping around and over them challenging.  

    This was the seventh time I have run this trail, one other time as a 100k Fat Ass in the summer, and I knew it pretty well. There were definite landmarks I knew to look for and we were passing by familiar established camps. I had made it through all of those miles of single track and creek crossings without soaking my feet, but I made the wrong choice about what way to head through a flooded section on the road and soaked my right foot all the way through not even two miles from our turn around point. I would now be changing into dry socks as well and trying to dry my Altra Lone Peak 2.0 in the bathroom at the campground, using the hand blow dryer. I loved that feature of this campground bathroom and had looked forward to getting warm in there for a few minutes anyway.

     After about 4 hours of running, Ras and I got to our First Up shelter. We each grabbed what we needed from our supplies and headed into our designated bathrooms to do what we needed in order to head back out into the winter weather. I poured myself coffee from the thermos, grabbed some baked Thai seasoned tofu and my dry sweater and socks. I pulled my down puffy from my pack to help keep me warm while I ate and dried my shoes and Buff, damp from my condensation. I peaked my head out the door to see if Ras was ready, and continued with my stuff until he was done. Then we put what we needed back away in our Easy Up shelter and began our climb back up the road towards the Baker Dam and the single track trail that would take us to Baker River and our car of supplies.

     We saw a backpacker heading onto the single track too, just as we approached it after our 1 ¾ mile climb. He was pretty loaded down and looked to be in for a big adventure. After exchanging friendly greetings with him, it seemed like he was just going out to spend New Year's Eve alone in the woods, a great way to bring in the New Year. We wished him well and trotted off down the trail.

     We were listening to our Mp3 players now and not visiting much. The daytime temperatures were noticeably warmer and even comfortable. I was down to a single Smartwool, with an additional wool sweater tied around my waist to put on if needed, and to help keep my backside warmer. It worked pretty well. We hit a really nice sunny patch, complete with mossy sitting logs and decided to take advantage of this moment of warmth. We soaked in the sun while having a snack and then continued on our way. I enjoyed this section and this time of day quite a bit and I was really feeling confident about our ability to complete the mileage. There are fewer creek crossings on the end of the trail closer to the Kulshan Campground and the going was quicker and smoother.

     But after about 3 ½ more hours, the sun dipped lower in the sky, the creek crossings increased and the coming night would bring on even colder temperatures once again. I kept pushing myself along the single track, running up gentle hills and letting my pace open up on downhills. I became used to the frosty, crunchy surface, in contrast to the frozen dirt or icy patches. Each section took different care and it made for exciting running. I remember the snow covered bridge crossing with bobcat tracks that was still ahead and the 3 sets of downhill switchbacks. I knew it would feel long at the end, longer than finishing a supported 50k where my pack was light and friendly faces greeted me, filling my water bottles and handing me snacks. There had been frozen moments of loneliness in the hours so far and I wondered how I would go on all night for this many hours more, for a second 50k on this trail in these conditions. I so wanted to go on and earn a buckle, and struggle through the mental and physical ups and downs it takes to  complete something like this. 

     We got to the final section of the trail that meanders through the Baker River bottoms and runs alongside the river itself for a stretch. It passes by rocky caves, where drafts of cold air are evident in the summer, but at this time of the year, the cave's air felt warmer than the outside air as we passed. Now it was just time to push it out strong all the way back to the car. The trail was fairly rolling or flat and there were no good excuses to not run. I got to the car, not knowing how Ras was feeling, but after spending many miles on the trails with him, I knew he wasn't his regular self. As soon as we got in the car and began to let it idle, the heat started warming us. I changed into another dry Smartwool sweater, dry sports bra, and dry socks. I opened my Bombay Potatoes Tasty Bites meal and began snacking, silently visualizing the rest of the run. I poured coffee for myself into my travel mug and sipped on the hot drink gratefully. It felt so good to have something hot to drink. 

Notches, like the one pictured above, were cut into trees to place a springboard for loggers to stand on. This allowed them to make their felling cuts above the swell at the base of the tree.

     Finally, Ras admitted he wasn't feeling well. He hadn't felt right from the beginning of the day. He knew he could complete the distance, but he really didn't have a strong desire to finish it in these conditions. He was concerned about the creek crossings through the night and the danger a dunking could put us in. I agreed that the crossings were dangerous. With this first half having taken us 10:31 to complete and still needing to finish this break and have another one at the Kulshan end, I just knew it could take another 12 hours to complete the 100k. Once out on the trail, our only option would be to run the 15.5 miles and spend at least 5 more hours to get to Kulshan. That would still leave our car at the other end, not at the camp. We would still want to run back to it for the final 15.5 mile stretch. Heading back out onto the trail was a big commitment.   

     I've run through many miles of pain or hard-going before. I knew I could do it. I just didn't think it was smart to do it in the cold temperatures with potentially sketchy water crossings. It was hard enough to see the ice on the rocks and scout the crossings in the light in a fresher state; the dark and tiredness brought a different challenge. A part of me wanted to attempt this challenge and see that I could finish it. I wanted to head back out on the 31.5 mile commitment. Because the wiser part of me spoke louder, and because of the team aspect of this run, the decision was made together to not continue. 


GEAR LISTS

Kathy

1. Ultimate Directions Peter Bakwin vest with 2 bottles carried up front
2. Hammer Nutrition Perpetuem Caffe Latte flavor – 1 10 0z flask consumed (I had other's ready, although I did not end up using them)
3. Tasty Bites Bombay Potatoes
4. Gu Salted Caramel, Vanilla and Strawberry Banana gels
5. Caffe Latte Chia Gel from Chris Barry @ Seven Hills Running Shop
6. Coffee from thermos prepared in the early morning
7. Wildwood Baked SprouTofu Royal Thai flavor – ½ package 
8. Smartwool Knee High Length socks x2 (extra pair in pack in case of delay, with soaked feet, due to injury)
9. Carhart Wool/nylon Blend socks (changed into these at the half way point)
10. Buff Wear brand merino wool buff
11. Smartwool brand merino wool neck warmer
12. Felted wool ear flap hat
13. Smartwool mid-weight sweaters, 1 with hood x3
14. Wool v neck sweater
15. Brooks Thermal weight hooded jacket
16. mp3 player by Sony
17. Black Diamond headlamp with fresh batteries and 3 extra AAAs in a ziplock baggie
18. neoprene ankle wrap
19. chemical handwarmer packets x2; 1 footwarmer packet; 1 toe warmer packet with adhesive backings in case of IT Band flareup
20. Ibex brand merino wool tights
21. Sugoio Insulated tights
22. Altra Lone Peak 2.0s
23. Marmot Down Puffy Jacket carried in pack
24. Mont Bell Down Puffy Pants carried in pack
25. Firestarter sticks x2 plus a new Bic lighter
26. Ziplock baggie of 3 Tums, 2 Reed's Ginger Chews, 8 ibuprofen, 2 Aleve, 1 ½ Vicodin (in case of pancreatic attack, enough to alleviate pain so I can get myself out to help)
27. one Iced Ginger Clif Bar
28. Burton Light Weight Snowboading Gloves in morning and Swix Cross Country Ski gloves in the warmer afternoon; kept dry pair of Swix gloves in pack as hands perspire and a dry pair of gloves to put on in an emergency stop situation is important
29. Dirty Girl pink camouflage gaiters
     
  
Ras

1. What An Adventure (WAA) Ultra Bag
2. Altra Lone Peak 2.0s 
3. Injinji toe socks
4. Smartwool light weight base layer
5. Pendleton wool button up shirt
6. Polar Penguin insulated work gloves
7. UltraPedestrian fleece beanie
8. Buff Wear brand merino wool buff
9. Camouflage fleece beanie
10. Dirty Girl Camouflage gaiters
11. Black Diamond headlamp with fresh batteries and 3 extra AAAs 
12. Sugoi insulated tights
13. coffee from thermos 
14. Maple Almond Butter sandwiches on Ezekiel 4:9 bread
15. Clif Bar
16. GoPro Hero3
17. Black Diamond Ultradistance Z-poles, one collapsed in my pack, one used as a camera boom
18. REI merino wool glove liners and Swix overmits (carried but didn't use)
19. Mont Bell synthetic puffy (carried but didn't use)
20. Smartwool arm sleeves (carried but didn't use)
21. Tasty Bites Bombay Potatoes and coffee during the drive to the trailhead
22. Tasty Bites Punjab Eggplant when we returned to the car
23. Sony Walkman mp3 player
24. SPOT transponder

Baker Lake 100k Fat Ass Trip Report

Baker Lake 100k Fat Ass Trail Run:
Friending Frogs, Ferns & Five Finishes To Become A Hall of Famer

By Kathy Vaughan

     Two fisherman came towards Ras and I as we started out on our 63 mile run at around 7 a.m., the light having been in the sky for almost 3 hours now. It didn't look like they had caught anything, except a startle as they saw two runners coming towards them in the cool of the morning along Baker River. Ras and I had wanted to get an earlier start than this, but we had traveled across the North Cascades Highway to reach the Kulshan Campground around 10 p.m. The night before, after having gotten a surprise day off from our summer work at a local organic fruit orchard. The apricots needed more time to ripen and this gave us just the window of opportunity we had been looking for to run the Fat Ass Style 100k offered by Terry Sentinella, the race director of the official Baker Lake 50k Trail Run held the beginning of each October. Baker Lake 50k had been my first ultra, my first trail race, and my first organized event of any kind back in 2011 and I had run it every year since. I was determined to finish this 100k distance, not knowing what it would feel like to be running that second 50k until I was actually doing it.

     Ras and I had set out to run the 100k, Fat Ass style, in November, when Terry had offered it last year. The weather was frigid and wet, the days were shorter and we got 50k in before we called it due to running in standing ice water as snow continued to fall on us. This time around, we were using the same system we had used in November, by setting up a camp at Kulshan Campground and beginning the run at the Baker River Trailhead parking area on the other end of the lake, 15.5 miles away. We would run to our camp to change layers and access food and then run back to Baker River Trail head, twice. We had a cooler, stocked with burritos, veggie wraps and energy drinks. We had a bag of ice cubes to fill our water bottles with ice and the campground itself had a spigot we could use. Our car would be at the Baker River Trail head, stocked with a cooler, food and fresh clothing options as well. We would cover each 15.5 mile stretch, without support or filtering water, but then have a good resupply session at each turn around spot.

     The first 15.5 miles went smoothly. I started to sweat almost immediately from the humidity that hung in the damp, rich forest canopy. I enjoyed the views of the river as it braided it's way toward the lake. There were many alder trees, thimble berry bushes, salmon berries, horsetail, broad & narrow leaf plantain and varying grasses growing in the river valley. The trail crossed the Baker River on a sturdy suspension bridge. The trail was gentle and smooth, easy to start out the run at a good pace. Soon, we were to the lake and crossing bridges over drainages coming down off the steep hillside to our left. A rustling in the bushes drew our attention to a mama bear. We at first didn't see her young cub, but heard it as it climbed up a large fir tree. We said hi to the bear and then moved past it calmly. She stayed with her cub as we passed. It energized us to have this bear sighting. Ras and I had seen a yearling bear just 2 days previous in the East Pasayten Wilderness while on a portering job. I like seeing these wild creatures, so big and powerful, yet mostly wanting nothing more than to be left alone. In all of the bear sightings I've had over the years, they've always vanished into the wilderness as quickly as they could. The cubs have always climbed trees while the mother stays below. I respect the protectiveness they show of their young. Ras would sometimes joke with me while our daughter, Angela, was growing up, that I was like a mama Grizzly.

     The old growth trees stood like majestic giants along the trail, causing us to occasionally point out one of these beauties to each other. The old trees were mostly cedar and hemlock. The deep greens and lush undergrowth were pleasing to the eye. Ras and I live in the north central part of Washington, where the forests have been logged of almost all old growth; it is a rare joy to see ferns growing and the forest floor more open, hosting wild rose bushes, pine grass, lupine, currants, wild strawberries, and aspen groves. There are only a couple of cedar groves left in our area, special spots known only to a few locals.

     I love spending time in these rich forests on the western side of the Cascade range. Ras and I ran quietly for miles, taking in everything this forest and the lakeside views had to offer. After about 14 miles, we were off the single track and on dirt road, for the final descent to the Baker Dam. We crossed the dam, Mt. Baker nearly within an arm's reach, and then finished our first of four 15.5 mile legs.

     We ran up to our awaiting tent. The campground was peaceful yet active. Families were enjoying a nice summer day and an old timer had arrived, setting up his trailer in the camp neighboring ours. He watched us, seemingly curious about where we had come from and what we had planned. Ras ate a burrito he had made for himself, and I discovered that the spinach tortilla I'd used to put together a veggie wrap had become a soggy mess. I couldn't eat it. I had made two of these for the day, already cutting myself a little short. I had other food with me, but these wraps were meant to be my lunch and dinner, a little more sustenance than the Clif bars, gels and package of Clif Blocks I had brought. The last minute decision to drive over to Baker Lake and run 100k, had meant I'd put less time and energy into preparing food for the run than I normally did. While Ras was making his burritos, I made the decision to try to use up these spinach tortillas I had and stick with raw veggies rather than beans and rice. I should have stuck with our normal standby, bean & rice burritos. “Nothing new on race day” is a saying you hear in the running community. I've changed it to “Nothing new on adventure day”.

     We left Kulshan Campground after nearly 45 minutes spent adding new bars and other snacks to our packs, refilling our water bottles and mixing in a Nuun tablet, eating and resting. We decided that we would move steadily for each 15.5 mile stretch and take rests at each end as needed. We hiked the paved section to the dam, ran across it and then continued the steep dirt road climb back to the single track. We had seen a senior citizens' hiking group coming towards us as we finished this stretch on our way to Kulshan nearly an hour ago. We were now seeing this same group as they made their return hike back to their cars. They were spread apart now and very curious as to what we were up to, running towards them from the opposite direction. We answered their questions in whatever format seemed appropriate, depending on to whom we were speaking. Most folks would be to overwhelmed if we tried to explain we were going to run the length of this trail four times. One friendly man understood what we were in the middle of, as he had been on the trail in the fall when the official Baker Lake 50k and 100k trail race was being held. He had an understanding of ultra running and he cheered us on. I liked seeing this diverse group, trekking poles and oversized packs, proud of being on this hike they'd likely planned for weeks.

     It was now midday and the sun was hot. The humidity hung heavy and we continued to drip sweat. The creek drainages offered a wonderfully cool breeze, the air cold from the mountain streams. I wetted my bandana and Altra visor at each of these creeks, splashing water on my face as I did so. This helped keep my body temperature cooler. Nearly to the Baker River again after having run the length of the trail a second time, Ras and I stopped at a large bridge to take in the cold air coming off the hillside, being washed downstream with the ice cold water. He wet his dreadlocks and splashed water all over him. I wet my bandana and sat in the soft moss in the cool shade of a large tree. We wanted to keep making good progress on the trail, but we also knew that taking care of ourselves in this heat was important and would allow us to complete this run. Lowering our core body temperatures would keep us safe. We both love finding special spots along the trail to enjoy what nature has provided. This was one of them.

     After 9 hours of running, hiking and enjoying mountain streams, we made it to the Baker River Trailhead, where our car and cold drinks were waiting. At this turn around, I changed into dry Smart Wool toe socks and my max cushion Olympus. I had been wearing my Lone Peaks and they were giving me all of the traction and maneauverability I needed. I was now ready for some max cushion, my feet feeling the 31 miles they'd taken me so far. I have done this several times now on really long runs, starting out in the Lone Peaks and switching to the Olympus at the half way point, when my feet are ready for some max cushion love. This way, I get to run in both of my favorite shoes and enjoy the benefits of both styles. (Ras did the opposite, running the first 50k in the new Altra Paradigm sent to him by Phil at Seven Hills Running Shop, then changing into his trusty Lone Peaks for the second 50k.) As an Alta Ambassador, I'm blessed with owning both pairs and always interested in how they function in differing conditions, allowing me to share this information with others.

     As a newbie ultrarunner in 2011, I ran this very course and rolled an ankle after only a couple of miles. I then rolled it a 2^nd time about ten miles deep, yet still refused to quit the race. This experience slowed me down for over a year, on downhill and rocky trail, nervous about reinjuring my ankle. Now, with a lot more experience and confidence, I was able to put on the Olympus, which has less traction than the Lone Peak, and know that I could handle the more technical sections of trail without the more aggressive lug.

     It felt good to sit down on the car seat while I changed into dry socks and the Olympus. I slammed a sugar-free, ice cold Rockstar energy drink, cherry flavored. What a treat! I like to trick myself into thinking the B vitamins, taurine and caffeine give me a much needed boost, but in reality, it just tastes good. I don't drink alcohol or soda, so this is the beverage of choice I turn to when I'm wanting a treat or reward during a hard endurance effort.

     I switched out of my Ultimate Directions PB vest into a Nathan vest. The UD pack, which has water bottles riding up front, was bruising my ribs. I loaded the Nathan vest, included my headlmap and extra batteries and mentally prepared myself to head out for a second 50k. I knew that once I got going, I would settle into the distance. Ras took care of his needs as well and we started off along the Baker River again. We began hiking, finishing the food we had been eating and softly chatting with each other about some of our strategies for the second half and giving each other positive feedback about how well our run had gone so far, despite the high humidity.

     I had changed into a dry Salomon skort, my favorite skort because the inner shorts provide compression and do not ride up while running, and I had hung my Altra shirt to dry, while we were on our last break. Starting out in fresh, dry clothing and different shoes, was a luxury I appreciated. Many of my runs are unsupported, and there is no option but to stay in the clothing and shoes in which I start. On my 800 mile thru hike of the Arizona Trail I'd completed in May with Ras, we both hiked in our same outfit every day, washing our clothes out whenever we had a chance to be by an appropriate water source. We were hiking in a minimalist style and carrying as little gear with us as possible. On the AZT a fresh outfit to change into would have been an unnecessary luxury, as pack weight in food and water was the priority.

     The air had not begun to cool and the thick mugginess was still present. We listened to our mp3 players and made our way along the trail, now mixing in more hiking on the steeper sections as the miles began to take their toll on our bodies. The course gains a total of about 7,000 feet in elevation, which makes for a mostly rolling trail, with only a few sets of switchbacks. The trail winds along a high point in one section, away from the thick forest canopy and exposed to the breeze coming off of the large lake. It felt so good to be in this more open air. We picked up the pace and before we knew it, we were running down the dirt road for the 2^nd time, almost to the dam crossing and then Kulshan Campground for our final turnaround point.

     Darkness had settled over the trail now and with it, a slight cooling in the temperature. I still felt sweaty, yet with the cooler air temperatures, it had become even more uncomfortable. At times I felt clammy & cold, and then I would feel uncomfortably hot. I had changed into a long sleeved shirt when we got to Kulshan, thinking I was going to feel cooler in the night. I had to keep pulling up my sweater to get some air to my clammy skin. I also began to feel drowsy, the dark night progressing as we worked to finish up the miles.

     The moonlight shone down on us and cast a dim light over the lake. The grand outlines of Mt. Baker and Shuksan could be seen in the distance, the moon allowing just enough light in the sky. We had gotten inside the tent at Kulshan to stay warm on our break. We decided to get under the sleeping bag, but our damp clothing and clammy skin wouldn't dry enough to allow us any comfort during the rest. Ras suggested we take a several hour nap and then finish off the last leg. He would need to drive us back to the Okanogan when we finished, and at that time we had thought we would just drive straight to work at the orchard. He thought the nap would help. I just wanted to take a brief rest and then get this run done. I knew the final 15.5 miles could possibly be a suffer fest, but I also knew I could do it. And I was ready to do it.

     Falling asleep while running/hiking in the night is a very disorienting thing to experience. My breathing began to change to a deep, relaxed style, the way one breathes when lying in bed ready to fall asleep for the night. I would start to have little dreams and then find myself off to the side of the trail, stumbling. The music I had playing in one ear had sounds to it that would sometimes startle me and for a moment I'd think it was coming from something in the woods. At several points along the way, we gave in to the tiredness and took very short trailside naps. The first time we did this, I had been stumbling along quietly, trying to stay awake. I did not know that Ras was struggling in this same way until he said, “I'm going to try to make it to Kevin's aid station, but I really need to sit down and take a short nap.” I was so relieved to hear him say this, as I was fantasizing about snuggling down in a soft bed of moss. Each place that looked even remotely inviting along the trail as we passed, would send me into one of these fantasies. Our friend Kevin Douglas had captained the Maple Grove aid station during the Baker Lake Trail Runs in the fall, so we now referred to this spot as “Kevin's Aid Station.”

     It seemed to take forever to get to Kevin's spot, but when we did we both remembered some nice logs surrounded by grasses that would be the perfect place to get a little rest before pushing forward. We kept our packs on but turned out our headlamps as we nestled into our sleeping spots. I wanted to keep a balance between fully sinking into the ground and allowing myself to sleep, yet not going into a deep enough sleep from which I would not awaken in 10 minutes or less. From Kevin's, Ras and I still had 10 miles to go. We could not afford to nap for too long.

     We got up from this rest and continued along the trail. Large frogs were enjoying the damp nighttime trail and sometimes it was hard to not step on them. We must have seen over 50 frogs, once darkness had come. By headlamp, the frogs' little eyes glowed in the dark while they slowly crawled off the trail, into the bushes along it's edge, more scared of us than we were of them. We saw only a couple of smaller frogs, most of them were large and pokey.

     Suddenly, Ras called out “What's that?” I looked ahead in the trail and saw a small, smoothed off stump in the middle of the path. Ras thought he had seen a calico cat, ready to go down into a burrow in the trail. We had been seeing many holes in the middle of the trail, made by marmots or ground squirrels. I told Ras he was hallucinating. He told me, no, it was merely a figment. We were both tired.

     Picking, sorting and packing organic fruit on our feet for nine hour work days had not prepped us well, as far as rest was concerned. We were tired going into this run, and now that night had fallen, we were just very sleepy. We took several more of this type of a trail side nap. Finally, we could see the sky lightening and the lake was once more fully visible. I could see the end of the lake, the Baker River dumping into it, bringing with it the Sockeye salmon that the floatilla of fishing boats had been after when we started this run the previous morning. I was ready to be out of the forest, running along the river, and finishing up at the car before too much light was in the sky.

     Ras and I passed by the cave entrances that had sent a draft of cold air our way as we passed them earlier in the day. We passed by the huckleberry and thimble berry bushes that had offered us juicy treats as we ran by their bushes in the hot daylight hours. Ras looked at his watch and said if we ran with everything we had left in us for the final river stretch, we could finish in under 23 hours. We pushed as hard as we could, leaving it all on the trail, to come in with a finishing time on this self-supported 100k of 22 hours 49 minutes.

     We were so happy to be done. We had just completed our 5^th Baker Lake run, the place where it all began for me 3 years ago, where I had my first ultra finish. Now, I had earned a spot in the Baker Lake Hall of Fame for having five finishes on this course. And I'd completed my first 100k. I can't wait to get that belt buckle. The middle of the night naps and tears had been replaced with the day's first light, a big smile on my face and endorphins raging throughout my system. Announcing to Ras on that last leg that I was not going to run Baker Lake 50k again in the fall, was premature. New rule: “No making proclamations of what you will never ever do again when you are in the throes of an adventure.” Now, my goal is to run along that lake again, the maple trees colorful and fragrant with their fall foliage, having a blast doing it, setting a course PR for myself in the process.


     We drove back to our tent at the Kulshan Campground and crawled inside. Ras was asleep and snoring within minutes. I tend to toss and turn after a big run, my feet aching and my mind racing with memories of what I have just done. I rested for a couple of hours and then got up to make veggie burgers and coffee. I visited with the old timer camping next to us and enjoyed the relaxation of being in the scenic campsite, my year long goal of running the Baker Lake 100k now accomplished.

Baker Lake: Take Two

By Kathy Vaughan

     Seeing the Facebook post Race Director Terry Sentinella put up about the Baker Lake 100k Fat Ass Run, I almost immediately got excited. Baker Lake 50k 2011 had been my first ultra trail race and I have a definite fondness for the course. I had run it for the 3rd time in October, initially signing up for the 100k distance. After a couple late-summer bouts of pancreatitis, I had not been able to train to run that distance and instead stuck with the 50k. Now, feeling strong and ready to try the longer distance, I was pleased that I would have the opportunity for a second chance. Terry would give finishers another official Baker Lake Finish (I'm going for my 5 year Hall of Fame status), a buckle, and an official finishing time on Ultrasignup. I mentioned it to Ras and he was on board.

     Runners could run the course on their own any time before Christmas or join him December 7th when he would be running it with a group. Ras and I live about 5 1/2 hours away from Baker Lake Trailhead. I had an appointment scheduled for an endoscopic ultrasound at the University of Washington Medical Center,on November 20th, to continue the follow-up testing I'd been having from the pancreatitis. We knew we would be driving over the Cascade Mountain Range for that appointment. It was easy enough to arrange to do the run on our way over to Seattle, allowing a day of recovery time before the fairly invasive test I would endure under general anesthesia. I couldn't think of a better time to do the run.

     The day before we left I spent cooking and baking some of our favorite post-race food and preparing burritos to take along in our packs which we would eat on the run. I baked vegan banana chocolate chip muffins and a huge tofu scramble dish with onions, green and red bell peppers, sun-dried tomatoes, black olives, fresh garlic, nutritional yeast and lots of yummy seasonings. I also packed an East Indian style curry bean package to have along with the scramble and roasted garlic and herb fingerling potatoes to eat on the trail. These left-over potatoes are good reheated with whatever meal we have post-run also.

     This run took lots of planning because of the self-supported nature of it as well as the forecast of cold temperatures with an 80 % chance of rain, heavy at times. We knew it would get as low as 28 or 29 degrees in the night and being wet in these cold temperatures would take some attention to proper layering and dry clothing being available.  

     We decided to set up our camp at the Kulshan Campground near Baker Dam. This campground has running water and a really nice heated bathroom with hot water, that seems to stay open year round. We knew this bathroom would feel like a luxury. We also decided because of the rain to first set up our Easy-Up shelter, which is completely enclosed. We would set up our camping tent inside of the shelter, put tarps over the top of the shelter and underneath us, and have a large folding table and chairs to complete our little home-away-from-home scene. We also had a nice Coleman camp stove with us and 2 Thermoses to fill with tea and hot water for Starbucks Via instant coffee pouches, for the next day on our run.

     We arrived at the campground just as it got dark. We used our headlamps and the headlights of our car to create the scene we had planned out ahead of time. We were a little surprised to pull up to the camp and see so much snow around, as well as huge puddles of standing water. We set up our shelter under a tree because it seemed to be a way to stay protected from snow if it should hit while we were here. There was no snow under the tree we chose and it was close to the heated bathroom sanctuary. It looked level and it turned out to be a good spot.  We had 2 huge double sleeping bags with us as well as 3 cozy wool blankets and a fuzzy purple blanket. We had everything we needed to stay warm in the cold and damp conditions.

     We had dinner in our shelter.  The tree was dripping although no rain was currently falling at the time. We decided to get some sleep and wake ourselves up at 1:30 so we could get ready, drive to the Baker River end of the trail and get started by about 3 a.m. 

     It was hard to get out of our warm sleeping bags and walk out into the cold. I got our stove out of the car and made coffee for us. Ras heated the water for our Thermoses. We stocked the shelter with our dry clothes and drop bags we would use when we got back to this spot 15 1/2 miles into our run. We figured we would get  here just as it got light out. We knew we would be wet and the tea and Vias would taste good. We each had a little pastry to enjoy with the hot drink when we got there too. Knowing these treats and dry clothes would be waiting for us, helped us to get into our car and drive on the dark, snowy road towards Baker River Trailhead. There were large branches on the road that had blown down in the autumn storms, and wet, slushy snow was present. It was mystical and exciting driving towards the trailhead, not yet knowing what our day would offer.

     Pulling into the large lot, we could barely see the trail head because of the thick mist. It looked completely different than it had just a month ago. This is where the turn-around aid station had been. The drop bags were on a tarp and friendly volunteers were saying "Hi" and offering to fill my water bottles. I snacked at the table while my bottles were filled and visited with the chatty older couple writing down times and checking off bib numbers. Tim Stroh was making hot grilled cheese sandwiches.

                                The Baker River Trailhead at the end of our run

     Now, I looked down the dismal trail, covered in about 4 inches of wet snow. The maples looked like giants in the dark, bare of leaves, but thick with moss. The large sign at the trail head said nothing that forced us to turn around and abandon this idea. This is how we had decided to celebrate our 17th wedding anniversary.

     We locked up our warm, dry car, turned on our headlamps and sternum lights and we were off. This moment of setting out on the trail  was about as exhilarating as it gets. I was filled with so many differing emotions and sensations. I couldn't see the trail off in the distance, only what I needed to see at my feet. I couldn't hear anything, only my own loud breathing as I got adjusted to the cold air and what it felt like to breath through a merino wool neck warmer. I could hear Ras' breathing and crunchy footsteps behind me in the snow. I remained calm and hopeful about what lie ahead down the trail, both within me and upon the surface on which I was running. 

     About a 1/2 mile in, the trail crosses the Baker River. We had been following some footsteps up to this point, but here, the couple and their dog had turned around. We continued over the bridge, much easier to run on covered in snow than wet and slick from rain.  There was some excitement in knowing we were now running where no one else had set foot since the snow had fallen here at Baker Lake.

     The forest remained very dark, although the moon had given a lightness to the sky. It was full, but because of the clouds it couldn't be seen. I liked knowing it was full and guiding us south, back to the dam and the campground; back to our Thermoses of hot beverages and our cheap pastries we would enjoy when it got light out. 

     Large trees had fallen over the trail in a number of places. Sometimes it was difficult to work through these sections. My gloves got soaked as I used my hands to climb through these rich, earthy, damp smelling sections, the ground disturbed where the tree uprooted and the huge branches blanketed in moss, sopping wet. Ras pushed a lot of these branches off of the trail when he could. Our plan was to run 2 out n' backs on this trail over the next 18 or so hours, and it would be helpful to get the trail as clear as possible. We also knew Terry and others would be out on the trail within a few weeks and they would appreciate anything we could do to help with the clearing. I kicked off rocks and branches when I could.  One time, I kicked at a big ball of moss thinking it was a piece of a branch and it only fluffed up into the air. Living on the eastern side of the Cascades, I rarely come across the thick moss that exists in this old growth forest along Baker Lake.  I love the dense, underbrush, ferns and the massive old trees full of character that make up these west-side forests.

     Finally, light returned to the forest and the daylight hours were beginning. We continued along the inviting single track, running faster now that our visibility had improved. The many creek drainages along the trail were swollen with meltwater from early snow and the heavy rains that had been pounding the area for the days leading up to this run. It was now raining persistently. However, as long as we kept moving, we were staying warm. There was no longer snow on the trail. It was mainly covering the trail nearer the Baker River Trailhead. The further we got from that northern end, the less snow we were seeing. The mist still hung heavy in the trees. The lake looked serene in these early morning hours and the distant peaks of Mt. Shuksan and Mt. Baker were hidden behind heavy clouds.

     It felt good to be warmed up, moving comfortably along the trail and fully awake to our day. We got to the forest service road that leads 1 3/4 miles gently downhill to the Baker Dam crossing. A Puget Sound Energy employee had just arrived to work and was unloading stuff from his van. He had a large white hard hat on with a face mask. This made it hard to see his facial expression as we ran past him on the dam, but I can only imagine he was surprised to see runners out in these conditions, so early in the morning.

     After crossing the dam, we were now on the final paved stretch to the campground. Ahead we could see our tan Easy-Up shelter. I knew in my head everything I would need to do when we got there and I also knew it was important to make this a fast turn-around. The garbage man was there, to pick up garbage. He was now having breakfast in the parking lot by the heated bath room. Other than that, no one was around. 

     The coffee tasted better than I could have imagined it would. I quickly changed into a dry Smartwool sweater, dry gloves, dry knee high Smartwool socks and a dry fleece jacket. I put my wet rainshell back on over the top of these dry layers and stayed mentally focused on getting back out on the trail. I had to fill up my Hammer Perpetuem flasks and drop off my empties. I had a few snacks to restock in my pack and some garbage to drop off. I used the heated haven, as did Ras, and then we were back out on the trail. As quick and efficient as I thought we had been, I looked down at my watch and could see that we had still taken 39 minutes to do everything we had needed to do. A self-supported run in these conditions was just a whole different ball-game to what I had run here in October, surrounded by my ultrarunning buddies and my daughter Angela, there running her first 50k.

     I did not want to overwhelm myself by thinking about how this was only the first time I would be hitting this aid station we had set up for ourselves in our shelter here at Kulshan Campground. We still had the 15 1/2 mile return trip along the lake to our car. When we got there, we would start our second out n'back. We knew we would have light for that full stretch and hopefully most of the next stretch back towards Kulshan for our second time. Breaking the run up into chunks would be how I could handle this distance though, and right now the chunk I would be working on would be running back towards our car at Baker River. More dry clothes and snacks would be waiting there. A cold, energizing Red Bull would be there too. Meanwhile, I had some forest to enjoy running through!

     As we climbed up the forest service road towards the single track, we snacked on bean and rice burritos.  We heard a truck coming up the road, and as we turned and looked, we could see the driver had his window down and was slowing to say something to us.  He was in camo, head to toe, and had his bright orange vest on also. I thought if we saw anyone out here in these conditions, it would be a hunter. He was surprised to see us and said he was pretty impressed we'd be out here in the rain, now mixed with snow. He mentioned to us that there was another trail head at the other end of the lake, Baker River, that we might want to check out. He was again surprised when we told him we had already run from there this morning and were now on our way back to our car at that end.  Silently, Ras and I both knew not to try to explain to him that we were actually attempting to get back to that trail head and then run it one more time.

     It felt good to get off the road and back onto the single track again. I was surprised at how my feet were already feeling sore from Plantar Fasciatis and I wondered if the cold, damp temperatures were making this condition come on quicker. Sometimes I do feel sore feet, but its usually deeper into the mileage. This was worrisome, with so many miles to cover still ahead.

     When we got to Maple Grove Camp, we both thought of Kevin Douglas who had run an aid station at this spot during the official race. He was not here now, but we still called it "Kevin's Spot". We passed through here, the familiarity of the spot having evoked memories for both of us of our runs here the month prior. I had set my own PR on the course and Ras had enjoyed a nice solid 100k finish. He had to pick up some fresh batteries from Kevin at this aid station during the race, having run for about an hour with dead batteries for his headlamp. His duct taped bundle of batteries he had with him that night had actually been dead, rather than fresh. His system of taping only fresh batteries together, had failed him.

     I turned on my Mp3 player as we ran along, needing the distraction of good music playing. The persistent rain, wet, cold feet from the swollen creeks, and the PF were taking its toll. I didn't want to get too pulled down from these factors, so I chose to listen to music to get me pumped up again. It worked its magic and soon I felt like dancing rather than running. I did feel bad though, because Ras had left his Mp3 player in the car to pick up for the second 50k. He assured me to just do what I needed and he wasn't bothered by it.

     The creeks were starting to slow us down a little bit. Each time we got to one now, we had to really look for a good crossing. Rock-hopping was becoming increasingly difficult. I  started looking for the best place to just plow right through. I didn't want to stop and figure it out each time, only to get wet anyway. It just didn't matter anymore; I was soaked all the way through from the rain and perspiration anyway.

     Before we knew it, we were back at the north end of the trail, nearing Baker River again. The rain was heavy and the wind was picking up. We started running through some standing water on the trail and realized all of the snow from the morning had now melted. It had not drained from the trail though, and was just sitting in puddles. It was half water, half slush and it was cold!!  At times, we would come to places where water was running down the trail like a creek. These conditions became more and more intense, the water now covering the entire trail. There was no way to run around it. We just ran right through it, the slushy water splashing up our legs as we lifted our feet as high as we could in these standing puddles of frigid melt.

     Then Ras said it. "I think we are only doing one out n'back." I burst into tears; tears I'd been holding back as the cold from these slush puddles chilled me to the bone. It was what I needed to hear and what was becoming the reality in my head too. It seemed silly to push on in these conditions and the fun was over. In about 2 hours, it would be dark again. The wind was really strong now and the heavy rain had snow mixed in with it. We'd both been wet for 11 hours now and we had at least that much longer to go. I had slowed down and the second out n' back would take even longer in the dark with worsening weather falling on us. Its just what it was.

     When we got to the car, I pulled out the camera for only the third time on the run. It had been too wet to take pictures.  I shot a couple of pictures and climbed in to the car, out of the wind, the rain and the November weather that inhabits Western Washington. Ras turned the key, the car started for us with no problems, and the heat began pouring out of the vents. We put on dry clothes, snacked and reflected on another challenging, yet, fun adventure; shared together, bringing us even closer in our partnership and bonding, celebrating our relationship of so many years in the way we like to celebrate most special days. And as it turns out, Terry will still give us a cool medal for a 50k finish and our time on Ultrasignup.